Climbing access issues?

As the hunting and heating (firewood) seasons approach, climbers visiting certain areas may encounter new signs posted by various agencies. These signs tend to focus on commercial uses, gathering of firewood and motorised vehicles. Climbing is a very low impact activity and climbers should not be concerned that access is being limited unless it is clearly stated (let us know if this is the case).

As always, the best way to maintain access to all climbing areas is to:
1. Keep a low profile (be quiet, respectful and low impact and ensure that you park well off all roads and use only existing trails).
2. Leave no trace (pack out what you pack in, be very diligent about human waste management)

Bad Mojo at Grey Mountain

It looks like hooligans have been out at Grey Mountain (The Back Alley). About $70-$100 worth of hangers have been stolen off various routes and anchor stations. As well a huge amount of rock has been pulled down - way more than is reasonable or even needed to clean the routes.

If anyone has any idea of where the hardware has disappeared to please let us know. All the hardware out there has been purchased by local climbers out of their own pockets and donated to the community and it would be awesome to recover what we can.

Don't forget the Bouldering Festival!!

The Allens and company are again putting on the Ibex Valley Bouldering Festival. This year is is on Sunday, August 9th (this weekend!!)

It is open to all and is always a good time. Details can be found here: http://www.yukonbouldering.com/

New routes at Grey Mountain

There are several new routes at Grey Mountain (Lower) that you may want to check out. - There is one to the left of the "Grey Wave" that has three bolts and goes at about 10a

Then there are 5 more to the right of the Grey Wave (around the corner):
1. A 4-bolt sport climb that goes at about 9+ or 10a
2. A 2 (or 3) bolt mixed climb that is about 5.9 (pro is not great)
3. A 2 (or 3) bolt mixed climb that shares some bolts and anchors with the previous climb and goes at about 5.8 (pro is not great)
4. A 4-bolt sport climb that goes at about 5.9
5. 'Sweet Caroline' - A 4-bolt sport climb that goes at about 10a up through a notch in the small roof at the top.

Thanks to George Kokuro and Alain Dallaire for bolting these lines! Try them out and let us know what you think about the grading. Please excuse any inaccuracies as this post is from memory. We will try to get a photo or topo and more routes names soon!

New ROUTE! - Golden Canyon..... No send as of yet!

Well here we go with another new route..... So Bri and I have been camping a lot in golden this summer which means.... we get time to bolt!

Sorry I dont have a pic just yet but the route is just to the left of "Crackin UP" in the upper canyon area. This one has been here for quite a while but only as a top rope. She now has 8 bolts as well as the standard chain anchor. This route is more technical than "Basquing in Your Affection" and is one hell of a pumpy brute! Follow the bolt line up till you pull through the mini-roof, then stay right at the top until you hit the anchor. The rock is really good and compact however there are a few questionable small flakes that might come off so be carefull when belaying. As far as I know it is still un-sent on lead so there's an FA waiting for someone. If you send it can you please write in and let us know the rating as well as the name so we can record it.

Have Fun!

GB

Here is a pic by Jen Eakins of me drilling:

D & D Boulder (near the rock gardens)

From Chris Cann:

Well we visited the D and D boulder tonight to take pictures and share with everyone. It appears some local climbers have already found it-blasted road! For those of you who haven't, head to the rock gardens but park on the left side of the new road. Start walking along the tree line towards copper ridge until you find a trail left. This trail used to go all the way to the rock gardens-blasted road! Follow the trail for 5 minutes, the D and D boulder is on your left- you can't miss it. So D and D ? Dungeons and Dragons. A buddy and I found this boulder 4 or 5 winters ago and have been picking moss and choss out of the nooks and crannys on obvious lines ever since. Yes I know, how do I know we found it. I don't, I just know we cleaned all 6 problems. But, If there is anyone out there that has been climbing it before us let me know. Most are highballs and required more nerve with the trees that use to be there. All of the problems in the first picture were sent with the trees in place. We tied the trees back with a dog leash. Check out the images for beta on the problems.

Something for everyone to consider: Climbing is an amazing sport, with individual beliefs and experiences. Access and safety are important considerations in climbing. Equally important is spending time with your friends in the outdoors. However I think there are some us that believe that climbing should be a subtle and respectful act that tries its best to be in harmony with nature . We have had some amazing sessions on the D and D boulder with the missing trees in place.

We are working in Haines junction this summer and have found some boulders on paint mountain,(or have found boulders that have probably already been found) we will keep you posted!!

FIRST IMAGE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT

Mephisto

Dungeon Master

Dragon

Mossy Highball

SECOND IMAGE LEFT TO RIGHT

Cockatrice

Your dog eats SH!&

Thanks to Chris for submitting this info.

GB

NEW ROUTE! - Golden Canyon

Well... ok.... its not brand-new..... but it's now bolted for lead. The route is "Basquing in Your Affection" and it is located in the "French Connection" right between the two easy crack climbs. She's got 5 bolts, chain anchors and goes at 5.11a. This will be a test of your balancy, crimpy, face climbing abilities. For a good time.... start on the right side of the wall at the base of the easy crack, and then do the little bouldery traverse to the left and then head up. Have fun!

PS: Thanks to Brianne Meister for being a bad ass belay master for 3 hours while I drilled and hammered!

GB

Ibex Valley Boudering Guide

I have received an electronic copy of the Ibex Valley Bouldering Guide from Sierra Allen who gave me the go-ahead to share it on this site. Many thanks to Sierra and her family for their generosity and all their work on developing boulder problems, creating the below map and establishing quite a few other rock climbs as well.

Do the right thing and print it double sided! (The printing option is found by clicking the MORE button below).

Ibex Valley Boulder Ing Guide

White Mountain TOPO - In PDF

I have had this TOPO for at least 5 years and thought that it would be useful to others as well. It does not have all the routes but gives a good idea of the grades (which are a bit off in places). I am not sure who drew it so let me know if you know so I can give proper credit.

This utility below allowed me to add a PDF to the Blog (normally a problem). To print the TOPO, click on the MORE button below.

White Mountain - TOPO

Rope found at White Mountain - Sunday June 14th

A rope and rope bag were found at White Mountain last Sunday. If it is yours, please email us and identify (by colour) the gear to claim it. We can then connect you with the principled fellow climber that found it. Our email address is climbyukon@gmail.com

NEW ROUTE! - White Mountain

Naked Grotto

3-way Climax 5.11a

20m - 8 bolts + Chain Anchors

This is a new bolting of a classic feature! Located just to the right of "The Wet Spot", its got everything you could want in a climb.... crimpy face at the bottom, lovely slab in the middle, and a "big ol" pumpy, monkey-bar, gym-thug roof! Dang its rad! The finish is the "white horn", oh and think about using a longer runner on the 4th bolt to lessen rope drag.

Pic of Mike Lewis nailing the last move..... yah Mike!

http://picasaweb.google.com/ClimbYukon/ClimbyukonNet#5338456922325640802

Enjoy

GB

Bouldering Competition @ FH-Collins May 14

Hey everyone, 

Mike Lewis asked me to pass this on to you:

Bouldering Competition: 

Come on out for a friendly night of bouldering to finish up the indoor season!  This is a free event and will be open to both adults and youth.  Look forward to seeing you there!

Where: FH Collins gym
When:  Thursday night May 14

*Registration starts at 5:30pm, comp runs until 10 pm

Thanks

GB

Thanks to all for White Mountain turnout ! (and an issue update)

Show of Support
On Saturday (May 9th) we had a great turnout at the White Mountain climbing area. There were 20 cars at one point with at least 40 different climbers and supporters there throughout the day! Media (Yukon News) also attended.

Climbing was happening from 9am to at least 6pm and one party even spent the night. Climbers of all abilities and age groups connected with others, showed substantial support for protecting this valuable recreational resource and enjoyed a safe day on the rock!

Action Update
It seems that the blasting will only marginally affect the actual climbing routes but we are still concerned about the impact of the excavation and ditching that will occur as the road is widened and moved closer to the cliff. One other safety concern is parking, the existing parking area will no longer exist post construction. On all these concerns Robin Walsh, Director of Transportation Engineering, Highways and Public Works Highways, has committed to working with Climb Yukon and Yukon climbers to find creative solutions.

The next step in the process is a site planning visit with Yukon government officials, the contractor and Climb Yukon members to determine what if any other impacts exist and to find solutions for them.

Even so its important to stay engaged. Construction is slated to start on June 15th. Until then get out and climb before construction starts - take your friends! Raise awareness of climbers and climbing in the territory.

If you have comments, concerns or questions please let us know either by posting a comment or sending an email to: climbyukon@gmail.com

Related
It was recently learned that the climbing area is already in Agay Mene Territorial Park, an area that is classified as a "Natural Environment Park". It is not formally established as a park yet but is classified as one. Perhaps Yukon Parks would work with us to provide and outhouse? More info here: Agay Mene Park.

Day of Support for White Mountain - Sat. May 9th

Come and join us to assess the situation, connect with the climbing community and climb!! (Click on the image to enlarge).



See below posts for information about the current status of the White Mountain climbing area and what else you can do to help (write letters!).

White Mountain Update and FACTS - May 7th

We are working with different levels of government and your support (letters!) is helping! Here is a quick update:

- We have a meeting with Highways and Public Works today
- The CBC story that ran this morning indicated that the blasting will not affect the rock climbs. This is not entirely accurate or certain. We DO NOT have official statements from the government confirming this yet. The CBC story is positive but not definitive
- Blasting is only part of the story - brushing, excavation, ditching, etc. are still major concerns
- Making good progress thanks to all the climbers sending letters - Keep on with the letters (see below post for example letters)
- Drop us a line at climbyukon@gmail.com whenever you go out there so we know how much use the area is getting and your observations on numbers of other climbers and construction impacts
- Come out to White Mountain on Saturday and do some climbing - connect with your community and show support for the area!