NEW ROUTE! - Golden Canyon

Well... ok.... its not brand-new..... but it's now bolted for lead.  The route is "Basquing in Your Affection" and it is located in the "French Connection" right between the two easy crack climbs.  She's got 5 bolts, chain anchors and goes at 5.11a. This will be a test of your balancy, crimpy, face climbing abilities.  For a good time.... start on the right side of the wall at the base of the easy crack, and then do the little bouldery traverse to the left and then head up.  Have fun!

PS: Thanks to Brianne Meister for being a bad ass belay master for 3 hours while I drilled and hammered!

GB

Ibex Valley Boudering Guide

I have received an electronic copy of the Ibex Valley Bouldering Guide from Sierra Allen who gave me the go-ahead to share it on this site. Many thanks to Sierra and her family for their generosity and all their work on developing boulder problems, creating the below map and establishing quite a few other rock climbs as well.

Do the right thing and print it double sided! (The printing option is found by clicking the MORE button below).

Ibex Valley Boulder Ing Guide

White Mountain TOPO - In PDF

I have had this TOPO for at least 5 years and thought that it would be useful to others as well. It does not have all the routes but gives a good idea of the grades (which are a bit off in places). I am not sure who drew it so let me know if you know so I can give proper credit.

This utility below allowed me to add a PDF to the Blog (normally a problem). To print the TOPO, click on the MORE button below.

White Mountain - TOPO

Rope found at White Mountain - Sunday June 14th

A rope and rope bag were found at White Mountain last Sunday. If it is yours, please email us and identify (by colour) the gear to claim it. We can then connect you with the principled fellow climber that found it. Our email address is climbyukon@gmail.com

NEW ROUTE! - White Mountain

Naked Grotto

3-way Climax 5.11a

20m - 8 bolts + Chain Anchors

This is a new bolting of a classic feature! Located just to the right of "The Wet Spot", its got everything you could want in a climb.... crimpy face at the bottom, lovely slab in the middle, and a "big ol" pumpy, monkey-bar, gym-thug roof! Dang its rad! The finish is the "white horn", oh and think about using a longer runner on the 4th bolt to lessen rope drag.

Pic of Mike Lewis nailing the last move..... yah Mike!

http://picasaweb.google.com/ClimbYukon/ClimbyukonNet#5338456922325640802

Enjoy

GB

Bouldering Competition @ FH-Collins May 14

Hey everyone, 

Mike Lewis asked me to pass this on to you:

Bouldering Competition: 

Come on out for a friendly night of bouldering to finish up the indoor season!  This is a free event and will be open to both adults and youth.  Look forward to seeing you there!

Where: FH Collins gym
When:  Thursday night May 14

*Registration starts at 5:30pm, comp runs until 10 pm

Thanks

GB

Thanks to all for White Mountain turnout ! (and an issue update)

Show of Support
On Saturday (May 9th) we had a great turnout at the White Mountain climbing area. There were 20 cars at one point with at least 40 different climbers and supporters there throughout the day! Media (Yukon News) also attended.

Climbing was happening from 9am to at least 6pm and one party even spent the night. Climbers of all abilities and age groups connected with others, showed substantial support for protecting this valuable recreational resource and enjoyed a safe day on the rock!

Action Update
It seems that the blasting will only marginally affect the actual climbing routes but we are still concerned about the impact of the excavation and ditching that will occur as the road is widened and moved closer to the cliff. One other safety concern is parking, the existing parking area will no longer exist post construction. On all these concerns Robin Walsh, Director of Transportation Engineering, Highways and Public Works Highways, has committed to working with Climb Yukon and Yukon climbers to find creative solutions.

The next step in the process is a site planning visit with Yukon government officials, the contractor and Climb Yukon members to determine what if any other impacts exist and to find solutions for them.

Even so its important to stay engaged. Construction is slated to start on June 15th. Until then get out and climb before construction starts - take your friends! Raise awareness of climbers and climbing in the territory.

If you have comments, concerns or questions please let us know either by posting a comment or sending an email to: climbyukon@gmail.com

Related
It was recently learned that the climbing area is already in Agay Mene Territorial Park, an area that is classified as a "Natural Environment Park". It is not formally established as a park yet but is classified as one. Perhaps Yukon Parks would work with us to provide and outhouse? More info here: Agay Mene Park.

Day of Support for White Mountain - Sat. May 9th

Come and join us to assess the situation, connect with the climbing community and climb!! (Click on the image to enlarge).



See below posts for information about the current status of the White Mountain climbing area and what else you can do to help (write letters!).

White Mountain Update and FACTS - May 7th

We are working with different levels of government and your support (letters!) is helping! Here is a quick update:

- We have a meeting with Highways and Public Works today
- The CBC story that ran this morning indicated that the blasting will not affect the rock climbs. This is not entirely accurate or certain. We DO NOT have official statements from the government confirming this yet. The CBC story is positive but not definitive
- Blasting is only part of the story - brushing, excavation, ditching, etc. are still major concerns
- Making good progress thanks to all the climbers sending letters - Keep on with the letters (see below post for example letters)
- Drop us a line at climbyukon@gmail.com whenever you go out there so we know how much use the area is getting and your observations on numbers of other climbers and construction impacts
- Come out to White Mountain on Saturday and do some climbing - connect with your community and show support for the area!

LETTER WRITING ACTION STILL NEEDED ON ROAD CONSTRUCTION AFFECTING WHITE MOUNTAIN RECREATIONAL CLIMBING AREA!

Current road construction, including brushing and possible blasting on the Atlin Road, will have negative impacts on the White Mountain climbing area.

Despite the initial serious impacts of brushing, at present, all climbs at White Mountain are still climbable, and the rock has yet to be disturbed. Let’s work together to make certain the Government of Yukon is aware of the climbing community’s concerns and is willing to work towards finding solutions that ensure access to our area of recreation is maintained.

Climb Yukon Association urges everyone to submit letters to the Government of Yukon (Minister of Highways and Public Works, Archie Lang), your local MP or media. At the bottom of this update is a list of contacts where you can send your letter.

Climb Yukon recommends keeping your letter clear and concise. You can choose to write your own letter or use the form letter below. Sample letter #1 is more political, while the #2 provides several topic options to choose from. Try to make no more than two points in any letter to ensure your audience’s attention is maintained throughout.

Notes: If you are writing to your MLA or Minister, keep to the issue; always Urge or Request, do Not Demand.

White Mountain Recreational Climbing Area- suggested letter #1:


Hon. Archie Lang, Minister of Highways and Public Works
Yukon Legislative Assembly
Box 2703, Whitehorse, YT Y1A 2C6

May 7, 2009

Re: White Mountain Rock Climbing Recreation Area on Atlin Road.

Dear Minister Lang ,

I am a Yukon rock climber writing to express my concern with the current construction activity in the vicinity of White Mountain on the Atlin Road.

The Yukon portion of the Atlin Road provides access for a variety of recreational uses including this prime rock climbing location. Located approximately eleven kilometers from Jakes Corner on the Atlin Road, White Mountain is one of the most popular sport climbing locations in Yukon. Over the past ten years, avid climbers have at personal expense worked diligently to develop and maintain twenty-five different climbing routes, a small parking lot/ day area and walking trails.

Should the current construction continue strictly as planned, it will result in a devastating impact to this valuable Yukon recreational site.

Preventing any further negative impacts to this recreational site is of paramount importance to me and I urge the Government of Yukon to meet with Climb Yukon Association (CYA) to identify the concerns of Yukon climbers and find practical solutions that will meet the objectives of improving Yukon highways while preserving the integrity of the White Mountain climbing site.

Activities carried out at White Mountain have a low environmental impact and are enjoyed by Yukon residents and Yukon visitors alike.

I am forwarding a copy of this letter to the Minster responsible for Tourism as I believe these partners have a direct interest in any determinations you make.

Thank you for your prompt attention to this important matter. I would appreciate if you would respond to Climb Yukon Association email address (climbyukon@gmail.com).

Sincerely,

Your Name
Address


Or use pick a topic below and write your own letter;

Date
Address

Re: White Mountain Rock Climbing Recreation Area on the Atlin Road.

Dear _______________________,

I am a Yukon rock climber writing to express my concern with the current construction activity in the vicinity of White Mountain on the Atlin Road.

With respect to this valuable rock climbing area that is under threat from the Atlin Road upgrade, there are many urgent issues that need to be addressed prior to proceeding with the road construction project. Preventing any further negative impacts to this site is of paramount importance to me, and I urge the Government of Yukon to consider the following points in any determinations to be made.

• Yukon has many climbers but limited climbing areas, and White Mountain is one of our best! Access to this area for sustained recreational climbing use needs to be maintained for continual development.
• The main needs of climbers at White Mountain include: a small parking area; a reasonable distance from road to cliff; at least three metres of undisturbed or (roughly) level ground extending out from the base of the cliff; a bush buffer to provide a natural atmosphere and to act as a sound and dust barrier from the road; an outhouse.
• Climbing has many benefits for the territory and its people. It is a healthy, safe and low-carbon form of recreation that is enjoyed by individuals and families. To inadvertently demolish one of the Yukon’s prime recreational sites would disenfranchise a significant number of old and new climbing enthusiasts.
• The Yukon outdoors is an important aspect of tourism and lifestyle choices that attracts people to the territory
• With more climbing infrastructure being developed, there are increased numbers of climbers from outside the territory coming to experience a new challenge that Yukon climbs present. This is a positive aspect for Yukon tourism especially during global economic recession and decreasing numbers of visitors to the territory.
• While recognizing the importance of maintaining Yukon roads, it is also of importance to identify and protect areas that Yukoners value and use.
• Climbing has low environmental impacts… White Mountain climbing area is non-renewable resource that cannot be replaced over time. It is important to protect the area since we will not be able to restore it at a later date.

I request that the Government of Yukon work with Climb Yukon Association representatives to find a solution to this situation so that climbing enthusiasts can continue to use and enjoy this climbing area.

Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter. I would appreciate a response to this inquiry via Climb Yukon Association (climbyukon@gmail.com).

Yours truly,

Your Name
Address

Send to:

Media

Yukon News
211 Wood Street
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 2E4
Fax: 867-668-3755
Email: rmostyn@yukon-news.com

Whitehorse Star
2149 Second Ave
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 1C5
Fax: 867-668-7130
Email: letters@whitehorsestar.com

Government of Yukon

Hon. Archie Lang, Minister of Highways and Public Works
Yukon Legislative Assembly
Box 2703
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 2C6
Email: archie.lang@gov.yk.ca

Hon. Elaine Taylor, Minister of Tourism
Yukon Legislative Assembly
Box 2703
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 2C6
Email: elaine.taylor@gov.yk.ca

White Mountain meeting summary and resources to take action

On the evening of May 4th, there was a meeting to inform rock climbers about the impact of the Atlin Road construction on one of our best climbing areas. It was very well attended with over 50 people and at least two reporters present.

Basically the update given by several key players that are dealing with different levels of government goes like this:

• The construction is underway and has already affected the climbing area in that all the bush between the rock and the road has been removed from part of the climbing area
• It appears that at least part of the climbing area is slated for blasting (in June)
  
• Several climbers and the Yukon Rock Climbers Association are taking action:
• Letters are being written to the Minister and Deputy Minister of Highways and Public Works, the Minister of Tourism (also the Minister of the Environment) and to our individual MLAs
• We are working toward a meeting with the Minister of Highways (and perhaps the Minister of the Environment)
  
• We are working with the Engineering Department of Highways and Public Works to determine the exact plan, location and timing of the work that may impact the area
• In all cases they have been reasonably receptive and we are confident that the politicians and public servants would like to work together toward a solution if possible
• Our main obstacles are time and the fact that there is not much room for the road at that point between the lake and the bluff

Recommended action:

• Continue to spread the word to other climbers and encourage action such as writing letters and placing phone calls to the Ministers and MLA's offices
• Even if you have already written letters draft more as there are new angles on this issue to bring up (see below) and no solution yet
• Use the climbing area (but do not disrupt the construction process)
• Write a letter to the editor
• Maintain a diplomatic approach and encourage benefits to the area as part of the solution (see below)
  

Resources:

• Points to emphasize:
• This climbing area is one of our best climbing resources in Yukon and has been in use for over 10 years
  
• It is in an area that will soon be a Territorial Park. Parks are typically areas that protect and promote wilderness, wildlife, scenery and RECREATION
• Rock climbing is a safe, healthy and low-impact activity engaged in by people of all ages
• The government actually contributed to the development of this area by assisting in creating the parking area for climbing during the last road upgrade abut 10 years ago - we appreciate that
  
• We don't need much: preservation of the cliff, a small parking area, a buffer of bush to provide protection and privacy from road noise, traffic and dust
• Potential benefits that could come of this include draining the mosquito swamp, a decent parking area, (maybe even an outhouse??)
  
• Contact resources:
• Minister of Highways and Public Works:
  
• -- archie.lang@gov.yk.ca -- 667-8643
• Minister of Tourism and Culture (and Environment):
• -- elaine.taylor@gov.yk.ca -- 667-8641
• List of all MLAs with contact info (click on your MLA's link)
  

Important Meeting about White Mountain

There is a very urgent issue with the White Mountain Climbing Area (details in post below). Please support us in our attempt to save this climbing area by attending a short meeting on Monday May 4th at 6pm at the Canada Games Centre - Meeting Room #2.

Context: Let's keep this meeting civilized. The Gov't and the Department of Highways have been receptive so far. This issue is not due to neglect or lack of consult, it is an unfortunate coincidence that arose and will hopefully be dealt with by working with all stakeholders in a positive manner. Media and Gov't representatives may be in attendance so we need a substantial turnout to show the numbers of affected climbing enthusiasts.

Atlin Road construction affects White Mountain climbing area !!

We have recently learned that road construction on the Atlin Road is affecting White Mountain, our largest climbing area (by # of routes) !!

This it what we know:

• Construction (mainly brushing) is already under way
• The climbs closest to the road (climber's-left from parking) no longer have any trees/bush between the rock and the road
  
• The other climbs to the right have not yet been affected
  
• It seems like blasting may be planned
  
• As far as we know all climbs are still climbable and the rock has not yet been affected
  

What we want/need to know immediately:

• What further impacts can be expected by this project?
• Are there plans for blasting?
• Will climbers needs (parking and a brush buffer) be addressed?
  

What is being done:

• Several climbers have written the Minister (of Highways and Public Works) and the Deputy Minister
• Others have been working from the "bottom up" by talking to the area manager and other public servants involved directly with the project
• YESAB, First Nations (CTFN) and other organizations are also being contacted
  
• Some climbers plan to go there tomorrow to assess the situation (and climb!!)
• A Public Information meeting is being planned for Monday, May 4th at 6pm at the Canada Games Centre (Meeting Rm 2)
  

What YOU can do:

• Call, email or write a letter to the Minister and copying the Deputy Minister expressing your concerns about this project and its impacts to our recreation (contact info below)
• ATTEND an INFORMATION SESSION that is planned for Monday, May 4th at 6pm in Meeting Room 2 at the Canada Game Centre to show how many people this affects. please come and bring friends!
  
• Inform EVERY climber that you know about this issue and encourage them to write, email and/or call as well
  
• Keep informed by returning to this website (blog) in order to take further action if and when necessary
• Go out to White Mountain to climb and check out the impact for yourself

Resources for contacting the Minister and DM:

• Minister of Highways and Public Works:
  
• Archie Lang - archie.lang@gov.yk.ca 667-8643
• Deputy Minister:
  
• Mike Johnson - mike.johnson@gov.yk.ca 667-3732
• Main points to relay:
• This matter is urgent and the project should be suspended until the impact to climbing is assessed
• Blasting would be detrimental
  
• The main needs of climbers at that area are: a small parking area; a reasonable distance from road to cliff; a bush buffer to provide a natural feeling, and to act as a sound and dust barrier from the road
  
• Yukon has many climbers but limited climbing areas and White Mountain is one of our best
• Climbing is a healthy, safe and low-carbon recreation that is enjoyed by many individuals and families and people of all abilities

Please take action, keep informed and ATTEND THE PUBLIC INFO SESSION on Monday night. If you have questions, comments or concerns or want to be more involved please email us at climbyukon@gmail.com . Comments can also be placed by clicking the link below.

Spring Update - April 2009

Spring climbing is coming - actually for the hard core few - it might all ready be here :)

Here is an update on current happenings:

Indoor Climbing
Thursday, April 9, is the last day for indoor climbing at FH. It's been an awesome winter and its been great having everyone out. We hope that we can arrange it for next year.

Ice
The Equinox Ice towers are closed for the season however for the committed there is still decent ice for those willing to trek in. Intrepid Ice Climbers may have luck with Reid falls in Skagway, and shady parts of White Mountain.

Rock
A few hardcore climbers armed with shovels have ventured out to Grey Mountain and reported good, if slightly chilly/snowy climbing conditions. White Mountain is probably in good shape as well for those willing to dig out the base.

If you have any news re: the condition of any climbing areas let us know by dropping a line at climbyukon@gmail.com or post below.

Indoor Climbing @ FH Collins

Just a reminder:

Drop in Climbing at FH Collins is canceled March 26th and April 2nd.


There will be an additional night available for drop in climbing on Monday March 30th, 2009 from 8pm to 9pm.

The last night for Drop in Climbing as Thursday March 9th, 2009. If there is a strong desire to see Drop in Climbing continue for longer please drop a line to climbyukon@gmail.com

For those interested the Event Calendar has an up to date schedule of climbing activities dates and times.

Thanks

Ryan