Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Rock Gardens

The Rock Gardens is the local crag right in the middle of Whitehorse. It is very top rope friendly though recently it has seen significant development of moderate sport routes. It can get quite busy here during the week. The land at the bottom of the canyon is privately owned and should be respected. Please do not trespass.


Directions:

From the top of Robert Sevice way go up the Hamilton Blvd Extension towards Copper Ridge. Take the first exit from the roundabout. The parking area is the first right after the roundabout and the trail head starts here. From the parking area follow the well marked trail. After 100m the trail overlooks the top of the canyon where most of the bolted sport routes are located. Continuing down the trail will spit you out at the top of The Prow overlooking Bonneti's Tourist Route, Babbette and Bang.

Click for a map to the Rock Gardens

Routes:

Grand Central Station

The oldest part of the Rock Gardens, many Whitehorse climbers have learned the basics here. Check out Crucifix, a super classic line and one of the longer ones in the crag. This area is quite busy during week nights.

Sun: PM

Rock: Granite

1. The Prow - 5.6

Top Rope 10m 2 bolt top anchor

Found on the north side of the Canyon there are bolts for a top anchor. Head straight up the face. Bonus points for superfluous hand jams.

2. Riverdale Rise - 5.7

Trad 7m Use trees for a natural top anchor

Follow a flake up the small granite wall. To the east of The Prow. A top rope can be set off trees at the top.

3. Babbette - 5.8

Top Rope 9m 2 bolt top anchor

Found at the very bottom of the canyon. Getting off the ground is probably the hardest part. Look for hidden holds.

4. Bang - 5.8

Top Rope 8m 2 bolt top anchor

A hard move just off the ground and then beautiful ledges to the top.

5. Bonnetti's Tourist Route - 5.6

Top Rope 8m Use trees for a natural top anchor

This route only gets climbed by instructional groups or when this area is really crowded. Setup a top anchor using the big-ish trees on top.

6. Cucifix - 5.10d

Mixed 20m gear to 3" and 2 bolts

With an addition of a bolt in the summer of 2009 the route can be safely led from top to bottom. For a 5.9 option follow the crack to right. Big cams are useful for the top of the indirect variation.

8. Heretic - 5.10c

Top Rope 15m 2 bolt top anchor

Thin face climbing leads to a sneaky move in the middle of the climb.

The Great Unknown

This sector is just 50 m up the canyon (back towards the parking lot) from Grand Central Station and is choked with pretty dense brush. This sector is home to a couple of easy sport leads.

Sun: PM

Rock: Granite

1. Tortilla - 5.10a

Top Rope 5m 2 bolts

Follow the tiny crack for balance y face climbing.

2. Underestimated - 5.9

Sport 6m 3 bolts

The most remarkable thing about the climb is the need to heel hook in order to set the anchor.

3. Step Up - 5.7

Sport 6m 3 bolts

This route splits in the middle for 2 possible finishes. Reported as a good route for new leaders.

Upper Canyon

Home to Pin Heads from Space and Dynosaur this is the where the most challenging climbs of the Gardens are located. Most of the routes here are sport bolted.

Sun: PM

Rock: Granite

1. Dynosaur - 5.8

Sport 7m 5 bolts

Set by our friends from the ACMG for a course. Like a lot of routes in this sector its a good idea to set the top anchor first.

2. Cosmos (Weasel Beach) - 5.12c

Sport 12m 7 bolts

Bolted long ago this route was finally sent by Mike Lewis in the summer of 2009. Tiny ledges lead to a burly roof test your mettle on the hardest route in the Gardens.

3. Pin Heads from Space - 5.11b

Top Rope 13m 7 bolts

Originally put in as a top rope and has recently been bolted. Bonus points if you can find the lost arrow.

4. Brian's Climb - 5.10a

Sport 13m 5 bolts

A mantle of a good time...... stick clip the first bolt and think about pre rigging your top anchor.

5. The Pocket - 5.10c

Sport 10m

Just to the right of Brian's Climb, the first bolt is rather high so the start can be rather committing. You made decide to practice the ancient art of stick clipping.

6. Loner - 5.9

Top Rope 4m 2 bolt top anchor

Located across the canyon from all the other climbs this one often gets missed.

8. First Date - 5.10b

Sport 6m 3 bolts

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