White Mountain

Probably the most well developed sport climbing areas in the Yukon. 16 routes on limestone most of which come in at 5.10. Interesting movement and burly moves are the hallmarks of this area. Access to the top can be difficult and there is little in the way of natural natural anchors so either be prepared to rap to the top anchors or bring a rope gun.

Directions:
From Whitehorse head east towards Teslin about 100km to Jakes Corner. Turn right onto the Tagish Road, 1km later turn left onto the Atlin Road. Travel 7km down the Atlin Road to the climbing area. There is a small pull out on the left with a fire ring. Park here and follow the obvious trail 15 m to the base of the cliff.

Click here for a map to White Mountain

Climbs:

Left Wall
From the parking lot, walk to the base of cliff (This is the Centre Wall). Nine is the first bolted sport route to the left. Hang a left and continue along the base four about 70m to where the wall peters out.

1. Unnamed 5.10b
7m - 3 bolts
What look like good ledges are actually all bad.

2. Unnamed 5.10a
12m - 3 bolts
Stick clip the bottom bolt and bust a move over the ledges to the chains.

3. Unnamed 5.10b/c
10m - 3 bolts
Crux is the boulder-y start. Enjoy the weird balance-y move at the second bolt

4. Left at the Lights 5.10a
11m - 3 bolts
Meandering route from side to side. Look for the 3 finger glory hold just below the anchors.

5. Dirty Filthy Crack 5.10a
10m - 4 bolts
Pumpy climb with a reachy start to the first bolt. Route takes a sharp dog-leg to the right at the 3rd bolt, consider extending with a sling.

6. Six - 5.8
7m - 3 bolts
Big on the bottom, thin on the top

7. Nine - 5.7
7m - 3 bolts
Thin on the bottom, big on the top

Centre Wall
From the parking lot walk to the base of the cliff. This is the Centre Wall. It Ate My Finger F*cker is on the corner to the right. Skunk Line is around the corner.

8. Unamed - 5.?
Top Rope

9. Unamed - 5.?
Top Rope
It appears this was a bolted sport route once upon a time but someone has pulled the hangers.

10. It Ate My Finger... F*cker 5.11
13m - 5 bolts
Crimpy, pumpy, evil. Go straight up and then follow the bolts to the right. Enjoy the exciting bolt placement

12. Skunk Line (indirect) - 5.8
12m - 4 bolts
Bolts go straight up, and there's a lovely crack going up to the right. If you hang out in the crack its a 5.8 but reaching the bolts can be tricky.

Naked Grotto
From the parking lot go to the base of the cliff and go left until you find a wood bridge across a small pond. The climb just before the bridge is La Suegra. With the exception of La Suegra these climbs are all top rope. Scramble around to the right of the cliff to access the top. There are rappel anchors above most of the climbs to access the bolts.

13. La Suegra (5.11b/c)
16m - 5 bolts
Thin holds to a slopey ledge. Clip the 4th bolt, change your underwear and keep going.

14. The Wet Spot 5.10a
Top Rope

15. The Wave 5.?
Top Rope

16. Sea Monkey's Revenge 5.?
Top Rope