Monday, June 9, 2008

White Mountain

The most developed sport climbing area in the Yukon. White Mountain has 16 routes on limestone most of which come in at 5.10. Interesting movement and burly moves are the hallmarks of this area. Access to the top can be difficult and there is little in the way of natural anchors so either be prepared to rap to the top anchors or bring a rope gun.

Style: Sport

Directions:

From Whitehorse head south towards Teslin on the Alaska Highway. Travel about 100km to Jakes Corner. Turn right onto the Tagish Road, 1km later turn left onto the Atlin Road. Travel 7km down the Atlin Road to the climbing area. There is a brand new pull out on the left at the base of a big road cut. Park here and follow the road on foot 50 m to the base of the cliff. The first bolted climb you encounter is Desperate-ado.

Click here for a map to White Mountain

3 Bolt Wonderland

From the parking lot, walk along the road 50m to the base of cliff. The first set of bolts you encounter are for Desperate-ado. All the routes here are 3 bolts to the top.

Sun: All Day

Rock: Limestone

1. Desperate-ado - 5.10b

Sport - 7m
3 Bolts

What look like good ledges are actually all bad.

2. Repo - 5.10a

Sport - 12m
3 bolts

Stick clip the bottom bolt and bust a move over the ledges to the chains.

3. Bounty - 5.10b/c

Sport - 10m
3 bolts

Crux is the boulder-y start. Enjoy the weird balance-y move at the second bolt

4. Harvest (Left at the Lights) - 5.10a

Sport - 11m
3 bolts

Meandering route from side to side. Look for the 3 finger glory hold just below the anchors.

5. Lawless (Dirty Filthy Crack) - 5.10a

Sport - 10m
4 bolts

Pumpy climb with a reachy start to the first bolt. Route takes a sharp dog-leg to the right at the 3rd bolt, consider extending with a sling.

6. Sasha-Frash (Six) - 5.7

Sport - 7m
3 bolts

Big on the bottom, thin on the top

7. Polywog (Nine) - 5.6

Sport - 7m
3 bolts

Thin on the bottom, big on the top

Pika Palace

Pika Palace is right next door to Left Wall. All the routes for the Pika Palace are on a detached cliff that faces the highway. There is a narrow gully behind the face infested by pikas. A rope attached to a large tree will help you aid to the top of the cliff. Walking from 3 Bolt Wonderland the first feature you will see is are 2 large cracks going to the top of the cliff. The second crack has a 2 bolt top anchor, this is Whores are People 2. It Ate My Finger F*cker is the last climb on the right that faces the highway. Skunk Line is around the corner.

Sun: All Day

Rock: Limestone

8. Whores are People 2 - 5.10c

Top Rope - 12m
Top Anchor

The route isn't climbed much and can be exciting to set the top anchor from above

9. Oh You Dog - 5.11c

Top Rope - 12m
Top Anchor

It appears this was a bolted sport route once upon a time but someone has pulled the hangers.

10. Trash Pump (It ate my Finger F*cker) - 5.11

Sport - 13m
5 bolts

Crimpy, pumpy, evil. Go straight up and then follow the bolts to the right. Enjoy the exciting bolt placement.

11. Right Foot White (Skunk Line) - 5.8

Sport - 12m
4 bolts

Bolts go straight up, and there's a lovely crack going up to the right. If you hang out in the crack its a 5.8 but reaching the bolts can be tricky.

Naked Grotto

This sector is the farthest from the parking lot. From the parking lot walk down the road to the base of the cliff. Continued along the cliff base until you find a bridge across a small pond. The climb just before the bridge is La Suegra.

Sun: All Day

Rock: Limestone

13. White on Rice (La Suegra) - 5.11b/c

Sport - 16m
5 bolts

Thin holds to a slopey ledge. Clip the 4th bolt, change your underwear and keep going.

14. The Wet Spot - 5.9

Sport - 18m
6 bolts

Corner "dihedral" with the crux being right in the middle

15. 3-way Climax - 5.10d

Sport - 18m
8 bolts

Second route from the bridge, looks like a big weird stone wave with a large roof at the end. This beauty is like 3 routes in one... crimpy face climbing in the beginning, a little slab section, and then a large roof. The finish is the white horn on the left of the chains

16. Undulation - 5.11a

Sport - 16m
5 bolts

This one is the third route from the bridge. There are 2 crux's, one at the bottom and then the other at the very top. Start out on the small base wall then crest up over onto a large wave type thing then head for the anchor chains. Super fun balance move at the top.

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