Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Yukon Gold Buttress - Trip Report

Stanley Noel and a few friends recently sent the Yukon Gold Buttress - a recently bolted 3 pitch multi-pitch on the far side of Lake Lebarge. Here is the trip report he sent in.

Hi Ryan, thought to update you on the Lake Leberge climb.

I accessed it by taking my zodiac from Helens Fish Camp (TAAN Land) off the Mayo Road. The boat ride was easily 1/2 hr around the west end of the lake past the Yukon River inlet about 1/2 km and up a slow deep creek which handles a motor boat no problem. When i could see the wall (see the beta sent by Sean MacKinnon) i hiked in. Its not rocket science accessing it, in fact its a really nice hike. The climb is beautiful, Id agree with the 5.7 rating given to it by the guys who put it up. The first pitch is a bit of sketchy start with scree and loose rock on the first unprotected 15 or so feet. Once you clip, its comforting... The second pitch is much nicer and cleaner, but still lots of loose rock. Might be worth a big clean by some ambitious climbers.

We rapped off cause we had 2 parties and two ropes, so i can't comment on the down-climb.

Anyone planning to go, make it a full day.

8 comments:

  1. Oh my, three pitches in the Yukon!

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  2. we just climbed a 2- pitch at silver slab the other day...it was super fun!

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  3. Glad to see the rig is seeing some traffic. A few more parties up there and it'll be as clean as a three star route in the rockies.

    Derek

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