Sunday, October 12, 2008

The Rock Gardens

Most of the development this summer has happened primarily in the upper part of the canyon.  With the exception of the mystery bolter who put a couple bolts in the top of “The Crucifix” to allow for a complete lead of the direct route! Head up the left side of the canyon till you come to a large bare rock look out.  You can get down on the right side of the clearing.  The first route you’ll come across is “Dynosaur", if you follow the bolt line it’s a 5.9+, if you go right it a 5.8, if you go far left it’s a 5.11c.  About 40 feet to the right is “Cosmos” This doozy has had a new bolt put in at the bottom and I’ve heard claims of 5.13 but I don’t know since I don’t know anyone who has sent it yet (if you have let us know at Next to the right is an old classic that has just been bolted for lead. “Pinheads From Space” is a 5.11b, with a hell of a crux as the second friggin move! Around the corner to right is “Brian’s Climb” a mantle of a good time rating at a 5.10. On the next wall to the right is a crimpy little number called “The Pocket”(see photo).  It’s ridiculously crimpy but tons of fun and is rated at 5.10c.  Right next to The Pocket is “First Date” (see photo) stay out of the crack and it’s a 5.10b.


  1. Two new lines using a common start are available at the Rock Gardens for leading. The left climb is called STEP-UP, a nice 5.7 fun to lead. The right climb is called the BIRCH, a possible 5.8 with a little bit more cleaning to do. These two lines are great for a beginner wanting to learn leading. Both have top anchors an are located 20 meters down than the upper part of the Gardens.

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