Agenda - Climb Yukon Association Meeting Oct 27, 2008

Agenda -Climb Yukon Association
5:30 PM Canada Games Centre Board Room


1. Who are we and what do we do?

Mandate:

The purpose of the Climb Yukon Association is to develop to the climbing community in the Yukon as a recreational opportunity for adults and youth, to raise awareness of, and address access and safety concerns.

This will occur through:

• Training and programs
• Climbing area maintenance and development
• Community education and communication
• Partnerships with not for profits, government agencies and the private sector

2. Winter Projects

• Indoor Climbing
• Guide Book

3. Admin Stuff
Who wants to get involved?

Any questions? Additions?

Drop a line at:

climbyukon@gmail.com

Climbing Club Meeting Monday Oct 27, 5:30pm, CGC

ATT: Yukon Climbers who give a damn!

The first official Yukon Rock Climbing Association (name isn’t final yet!) meeting is taking place Monday Oct 27 @ 5:30pm in the Canada Games Centre (board room). This meeting is open to anyone with interest in making the Yukon a better/ safer place to climb.

Hope to see you there!

Gary.

PS - send us your pics!

climbyukon@gmail.com

14 New Lead, and 15 New Top Rope Climbs In the Yukon

I want to start this post with a request for photos and stories of climbing here in the yukon, or Yukoners climbing elswhere....... Send your stuff to  climbyukon@gmail.com and we'll post it on our site!

Hello all, Well the weather was generally kinda crappy this summer but that didn’t stop us from enjoying a great climbing season. Our main goal this year was to open up some of our local climbing areas to accommodate the rapid growth of our climbing community, no sense in having line-ups when we have nearly unlimited rock! Turns out we have a boat load of climbing here in the Whitehorse area, or as I like to call it “land of a thousand crags!”  This summer saw the addition of 14 new sport routes as well as 15 new top rope only routes (most of which will be bolted for lead next summer), and  that is only in the Whitehorse area. Here’s low down on what’s new! 

White Mountian

Golden Canyon

The Rock Gardens

Silver Slab

Grey Mountain Lower

Grey Mountian Upper

The Acropolis

If you have spotted a possible climbing area, please send us an email (climbyukon@gmail.com) Try to include good directions, pics and estimated height if you can. Also If you have any other information on any of these routes (pictures, first ascent info, etc.) let us know so we can update the info.

 The Yukon Rock Climbing Association (name isn’t final yet!) is looking to have its first official meeting very soon! If your interested in getting involved let us know.  The plan is to do what we can over the winter so that our summers are left free to climb.  Some of the possible projects are, trail cutting, out houses at the popular crags, retro bolts old climbs with un safe hardware, site expansion/ develpment, Ice Climbing, etc.  We have great group of keeners that want to make the Yukon a safe, modern place to go climbing.  climbyukon@gmail.com. 

 Take Care,

 Gary

  

The Acropolis

Turns out there is climbing right behind Copper Ridge! From Falcon Dr head down Northstar, turn right on the last road and park at the pump house.  From there head directly down the bank where the sticks on the ground make a clear path.  If you found the right spot you will come to a sweet tree house, go under the tree house and stay kinda right through the marsh ( I put a board down on the ground to help avoid the water).  From there you will pick up a blue ribbon trail, stay kinda right and follow it to the edge of the valley.  From this point you will be able to see the Acropolis (see attached photo). We have some plans for this site but as of right now there is only 1 established route and its on the SE face. This site is still very dirty so be very careful and expect rock fall! This route is unnamed and is quite hard……what you don’t realized until you on it is how over hung it really is.  My guess is that its in the low 5.11’s (because its so sustained).  That said the couple times I’ve tried this pumpy brute, it was allot of fun. The Acropolis needs a lot of work but offers some great climbing real close to home!

Grey Mountain Upper

We recently found this site so there is not much going on here yet.  Head up past the Grey Mountain Lower parking lot and park just before the snow cat road that meets up with the main road. Look for the first rock cairn just up on the side of the hill 30 feet off the road.  Follow the rock cairn up the side of the hill to the left for about 10min and you will come to the upper bluff.  We have put 2 bolts about 20 feet back from the top of this wall for exploration.  It’s ridiculously sharp ,weird and slabby…but ohh so much fun.  There is also another little wall directly below this one that we have to explore more of still. Oh and the best part of this place……the view!

Grey Mountain Lower

Yes that’s right there is climbing on that giant chunk of lime stone we all love to look at every day.  Head to the parking pull-out for the mountain bike trail called “Easy Money”, it’s the last parking area on the left side (going up) of grey mountain road once you pass the sign that says “road is not maintained beyond this point”.  From the parking spot stay low and follow the rock around to the left. Thanks to our friends Alain, Manu, and Sean There are 5 new climbs in this area. The first climb starting on the left as you face the rock is called “Sweet Hole” it has 4 bolts and is rated at 5.10d.  5 feet to the right is another climb that shares the same top as Sweet Hole but has a different start.  Manu says its really cool but quite hard, its rated at 5.11 b/c.  The Next climb to the right is overhanging and rated at 5.10d.  To the right some more is “The Grey Wave” it rates at 5.9+. The last climb on the right (for now!) is just around the corner and I’m told is a 5.9+.

Silver Slab

Silver Slab got 4 new routes 1 being a sport route.  When you first get the base of the main slab you will see one of the existing routes, just to the left of this lead climb is the 3  new ACMG put up climbs.  The first one is still unnamed and goes at 5.7, just to the left of that is the unnamed 5.8 lead. Just to left of that one is a another unnamed 5.9, this one is fun with the crux being getting up the bulge in the middle. To the left is one more new climb… but I’m not sure on rating or name.  And just in case you didn’t know (like I didn’t) If you follow the base of the wall to the left you will come across what was a anchor cleaning station (until some douche robbed one of the hangers!), and if you start just to the left of that there’s a sweet 2-pitch slab climb there called “Bonsai” witch rates somewhere in the 5.10+ range.

Golden Canyon

30m past the “Ball Park” (the giant boulder you come across on the main trail) the trail jutes right toward the canyon wall.  Right at that point is super fun trad route called “Shark Attack”. This is a great little 5.10 finger to fist crack climb with the crux being at the halfway point when you transfer up onto the main ledge. This is an old route that we put a new anchor to replace the old faded webbing rap anchor. A top rope can now be setup from a quick scamper up to the right of the climb. Just as you get to the French Connection you will see 2 shiny new chain anchors just like the one on Shark Attack, (by the way the chain we used is load rated for 6600lbs, please use 2 biners at the bottom as to not wear out the chain links). These are 2 new top rope climbs that will eventually be bolted for lead (next spring). Farther up the canyon about 50m past the dihedral “Crackin Up” we have retro bolted the anchors on an existing climb.  Its wicked fun but use caution as it is still very dirty and belayers beware, this route has some loose rock still on it, so this is definitely a helmets on zone!

The Rock Gardens

Most of the development this summer has happened primarily in the upper part of the canyon.  With the exception of the mystery bolter who put a couple bolts in the top of “The Crucifix” to allow for a complete lead of the direct route! Head up the left side of the canyon till you come to a large bare rock look out.  You can get down on the right side of the clearing.  The first route you’ll come across is “Dynosaur", if you follow the bolt line it’s a 5.9+, if you go right it a 5.8, if you go far left it’s a 5.11c.  About 40 feet to the right is “Cosmos” This doozy has had a new bolt put in at the bottom and I’ve heard claims of 5.13 but I don’t know since I don’t know anyone who has sent it yet (if you have let us know at climbyukon@gmail.com). Next to the right is an old classic that has just been bolted for lead. “Pinheads From Space” is a 5.11b, with a hell of a crux as the second friggin move! Around the corner to right is “Brian’s Climb” a mantle of a good time rating at a 5.10. On the next wall to the right is a crimpy little number called “The Pocket”(see photo).  It’s ridiculously crimpy but tons of fun and is rated at 5.10c.  Right next to The Pocket is “First Date” (see photo) stay out of the crack and it’s a 5.10b.

White Mountain (new stuff)

We have recently put up 2 new routes. When you arrive at the site, head right, into the “naked grotto” (the last area you will come to). You will see a new 17m (ish) - 6 bolt- dihedral route called “The Wet Spot”. It comes in at a lovely 5.10a, with the crux being right smack in the middle.  Over to the right some more you will see another freshly bolted beauty, named “Undulation”.  This one is around 15m and has 5 bolts and goes at 5.11a.  This ones a little harder with 2 cruxes, the first being near the bottom, and the 2^nd one is right at the top.  Both routes are super fun and are begging for you to give them a pull.