The short version from Will's blog is as follows:
- the Euro Death Knot (EDK) is a good knot for joining 2 ropes for rappelling (leave long tails)
- for V-threads
- with 7 mm cord use a Fisherman's knot
- with webbing use a water knot
- threading your rope opens the door for all sorts of trouble
- re-bored screw placements are almost as strong as a fresh placement
- use long ice screws to make the strongest V-threads
- NEVER use a single anchor (V-thread or ice screw) when high forces are expected
Good information and a good read. As usual, ice climbing is a dangerous sport and you should seek instruction from a qualified guide. We're not responsible for anything you choose to do in the mountains. Besides you shouldn't believe stuff you read on the Internet anyway.
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