Friday, December 30, 2011

Ice Conditions- December 2011

Please note ice and snow conditions are predictably unpredictable what you find when you get to the area might be completely different from what's written here.  

White Mountain - North Face
Ice Condition: Good
Snow Load: High
No updates on this area this month, though from the highway it looks as though snow has built up above Funga Phobia and Allen's Pillar.  Avalanche risk is likely pretty high.

White Mountain - South Face
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: Light
Log Jammed is in a has good ice for most of its length.  Down low the ice is thin and the pro is marginal.  The little brother of Log Jammed on climber's right has formed up nicely but still has not reached the top of the cliff.

Carcross - Pooley
Ice Condition: Poor
Snow Load: High
Many of the waterfalls have frozen in Pooley but anticipate swimming to get the the base.  Many falls have open pools of water beneath them. To stay dry, liberal use of mixed climbing technique is  required.  A couple of members in our party went for a dip on the rappel out. 

Carcoss- Solar Flare/Soleil
Ice Condition: Good
Snow Load: High
These climbs appear to be in good condition with lots of ice visible from the road. 

Skayway - Moore Creek Bridge to Customs
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: High
Spicy Meatballs is fairly well formed on climber's left but the taller climbs on the right are still pretty rocky.  The top 5 feet or so of this area haven't formed much ice yet so climbing up to a top rope anchor will involve exciting mix moves in moss and willows. The Amphitheatre has good ice and a number of other seeps in the area are in as well.  There is lots and lots of heavy wet snow on the approach.  Take someone young and keen to break trail.

Skayway - Customs to Skagway
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: Light
Beyond US Customs the 2 climbs in the right are in and in good condition.  No update on Reid Falls in Skagway proper, but as it's been warm in Skagway all month it's probably pretty rotten.