Thursday, July 19, 2012

New route at the Rusted Goat wall in White Moutain

George Kokuryo and I have been busy the last three days to complete a second line at White Mountain called "Iki Gai". It is ready to go, and here is the information:

Technical information:               Climb:    IKI GAI,   5.10,   131 meters
Pitch 1: 5.9, 31 meters (9 bolts)
- Bolts are fairly close together, as the pitch is consistent.
Pitch 2: 5.9      , 25 meters (? bolts)
Pitch 3: 5.10, 27 meters (? bolts)
- Stay on left on the first three bolts, as some blocks on the right seem to be loose
- The crux is at the 3rd and 4th bolt.
Pitch 4: 5.10, 28 meters (7 bolts)
- The fifth bolt on the right is difficult to see
Pitch 5: 5.9, 20 meters (4 bolts)
- Hairy move over the bulge before the anchor

- 15 meters to the left of Soleil de Soirée (see topo on previous article)

- Linking 2 pitches together on rappel can be tricky, as the rock is sharp and the rope is easy to get stuck. We feel that single pitch rappel is the safest.
- Nice and large belay ledges for each belay station
- Be careful for loose pebble rocks on small ledges. They are not big, but coming fast, and can certainly hurt! Be careful for other climbers on Soleil de Soirée, as both climbs are close together.

- We are missing details for bolts numbers; we will update later. Don't worry, no bolts are missing, we just don't remember the exact number for certain pitch.
- The grade can be wrong can always change as we need to climb it a few more times.
- I am working to find a moderate long 5.6 or 5.7.

Please play safe, and don't get in over your head. You are in alpine terrain. Stay within your abilities, and make sure you go with someone experienced with muti-pich climbing. Climbing can have serious consequences if not practiced properly!

If you climb any of these lines, give us some feedback that other climbers can benefit to hear when they go. Pictures would be nice start as we have a limited number !



  1. Wow, great work guys! Can't wait to climb this new route when I'm back in two weeks!


  2. Hey, I climbed this today (May 29th, 2014). Really fun slabby route.
    I found out the number of draws for pitch 2 and 3, and found a mistake with your numbering for pitch 1:
    Pitch 1: 10 bolts
    Pitch 2: 6 bolts
    Pitch 3: 7 bolts
    Thanks for putting this up! The walk in was rough, but we found it no problem :)

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