ClimbYukon

COLD SNAP CRUSHER: INDOOR CLIMBING COMPETITION

2012-01-21T11:17:00.000-08:00

Have not climbed yet this winter ! Come and try the fun indoor bouldering competition organised for begginners, intermediates as well as advanced climbers. Three hours of climbing trying at least 20 differents fun bouldering problems. The cost is $10 for the evening, with all proceeds going to the Youth climbng team. Door prizes and a guaranteed forearm pump !!

Location: FH Collins- Indoor climbing gym (use gym street door access)

Date: Thursday, February 23, 2012

Carcross Gym Re-opens

2012-01-04T15:57:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year everyone!

Carcross gym re-opens this Thursday (tomorrow). Consider the extra holiday pounds "weight training" and come out and get your climb on!

r.

Juneau Indoor Competition results Nov 2011

2012-01-03T20:22:00.000-08:00

Eleven climbers from the Yukon youth climbing team got on the ferry in a snow storm with enough snow to create a snowman on the stern deck. After almost three months of training, everyone was stoked and ready to participate in the 2011 "Post Turkey Pull-down" indoor climbing competition at the Rock Dump Climbing Gym in Juneau, Alaska.

With over 50 participants and 35 boulder problems, climbers were ranked according to their four best climbs over a four hour period. After a couple hours on the wall, forearms were starting to fail, but the tenacious Yukon contingent kept climbing. Two of our athletes, Drew Spicer and Seamus Beairsto, were among the top 6 overall scores and made it to the finals. They each had 5 minutes on four different problems, ranging from V5 to V8. It was a tough workout for both Seamus and Drew, but a great experience.

Overall the club placed well and provided serious competition to local Juneau climbers traning on a gymnasium that we would dream to have in Whitehorse. In the female category, Ella Parker and Amaya Cherian-Hall came out with second and third place rankings, respectively. Henry Beairsto, Julian Moore and Casey Parker also placed in the beginner category. Everyone improved tremendously and is climbing harder problems than before the Juneau event.

The next out-of-territory competition will be in April. The team will be putting on a climbing competition in Whitehorse between now and then.

Thank you to the volunteer coaches for helping to train these athletes three times a week at the FH indoor climbing wall. A big thanks to Kathleen McDade for organising the competiton and coaching as well. Thank you to Greg Oldridge and Shane Dooley for their commitment at the gym as coaches.

Stay tuned for more info on the upcoming bouldering competition. Hope to see you there!

Ice Conditions- December 2011

2011-12-30T12:41:00.000-08:00

Please note ice and snow conditions are predictably unpredictable what you find when you get to the area might be completely different from what's written here.

White Mountain - North Face
Ice Condition: Good
Snow Load: High
No updates on this area this month, though from the highway it looks as though snow has built up above Funga Phobia and Allen's Pillar. Avalanche risk is likely pretty high.

White Mountain - South Face
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: Light
Log Jammed is in a has good ice for most of its length. Down low the ice is thin and the pro is marginal. The little brother of Log Jammed on climber's right has formed up nicely but still has not reached the top of the cliff.

Carcross - Pooley
Ice Condition: Poor
Snow Load: High
Many of the waterfalls have frozen in Pooley but anticipate swimming to get the the base. Many falls have open pools of water beneath them. To stay dry, liberal use of mixed climbing technique is required. A couple of members in our party went for a dip on the rappel out.

Carcoss- Solar Flare/Soleil
Ice Condition: Good
Snow Load: High
These climbs appear to be in good condition with lots of ice visible from the road.

Skayway - Moore Creek Bridge to Customs
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: High
Spicy Meatballs is fairly well formed on climber's left but the taller climbs on the right are still pretty rocky. The top 5 feet or so of this area haven't formed much ice yet so climbing up to a top rope anchor will involve exciting mix moves in moss and willows. The Amphitheatre has good ice and a number of other seeps in the area are in as well. There is lots and lots of heavy wet snow on the approach. Take someone young and keen to break trail.

Skayway - Customs to Skagway
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: Light
Beyond US Customs the 2 climbs in the right are in and in good condition. No update on Reid Falls in Skagway proper, but as it's been warm in Skagway all month it's probably pretty rotten.

Date Change for Carcross Climbing

2011-12-07T08:25:00.001-08:00

Carcross is having a community dinner this Thursday, Dec. 8 this means climbing gets bumped to Friday for this week.

$10 gets you in the door - unless you belay a few kids or help set a few routes. The money you pay goes to purchasing gear for Carcross Rec.

6:00pm -7:30pm - Kids climbing (usually chaos)

7-30pm -ish - until the janitor kicks us out - Adult climbing.

Usually we finish up around somewhere between 9:00pm and 10:00pm

No gear? We've you covered. Carcross Rec provides shoes, harness, rope, belay devices etc. at no extra charge.

Need a refresher? Equinox staff are on hand and will be happy to go over the basics with you .

See you out there!

Ice Conditions - Nov 2011

2011-11-28T11:11:00.001-08:00

Early season ice climbing is under way. To help minimized your driving time and to better plan your most excellent ice adventure here are what people are reporting about ice conditions in the Yukon Southern Lakes/White Pass area:

Please note ice and snow conditions are predictably unpredictable what you find when you get to the site might be completely different from what's written here.

White Mountain - North Face
Ice Condition: Good
Snow Load: High
Climbs higher on the north face (Funga Phobia, Allen's Pillar) are in, if a little thin. Take care if visiting some of the higher climbs as avalanche risk will have increased with all the recent snow. The unnamed climb mentioned here had not reached the ground by mid-November, though with the spate of cold temps it has likely formed up by now.

White Mountain - South Face
Ice Condition: Poor
Snow Load: Light
Marginal conditions exist on the south face of White Mountain. Log Jammed has large patches of mud interspersed with thin patches of ice. The little brother of Log Jammed on climber's right is not climbable.

Carcross - Pooley
Ice Condition: Unknown
Snow Load: High
Pooley Creek has frozen over down by the highway but no ice is visible up higher in the canyon. There is, however, a lot of snow.

Carcoss- Solar Flare/Soleil
Ice Condition: Good
Snow Load: High
These climbs appear to be in good condition with lots of ice visible from the road. The lake does not look safe to cross.

Skayway - Moore Creek Bridge to Customs
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: Light
Warmer temps and lots of water means decent ice towards Skagway. Most climbs have formed up to some extent but there is still a lot of visible rock. Spicy Meatballs and the Amphitheatre are climbable but you will have to work around some rock. Pack your stubbies and maybe a couple of nuts.

Skayway - Customs to Skagway
Ice Condition: Moderate
Snow Load: Light
South of customs the ice climbs are a bit thin but definitely climbable. The temps are very reasonable and the snow load is almost non-existent. Some of the gullies that are normally choked with snow have visible ice in them. Last, but not least, I would give Reid Falls a pass until after January.

Indoor Climbing in Juneau November 26th !

2011-10-23T22:13:00.001-07:00

The Yukon Youth Climbing Club will be going to Juneau for an Indoor Climbing competition at the Rock Dump climbing gym on Saturday November 26th. A group of 10 dedicated youth climbers (males and females) will participate in the event. On Sunday we will enjoy the day in the gym playing on some of their routes.

The competition is open to general public. Yukon climbers are all invited to the events for a fun weekend. If you have any questions about the event contact the gym at http://www.rockdump.com/. The group will take the ferry from Skagway to Juneau on Friday, returning on Monday. Check out the Alaska Marine Highway website for schedule (http://www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/). For any other questions you contact me on this blog or at alain.dallaire@yesnet.yk.ca.

Alain Dallaire

Knots, Rappeling, V-Threads

2011-10-12T16:00:00.000-07:00

Its not (quite) ice season however its getting closer and closer everyday. Will Gadd has posted some good information on his blog about rappelling and knots when climbing ice. He also links to a really good paper on v-threads and re-bored screw placements.

The short version from Will's blog is as follows:

the Euro Death Knot (EDK) is a good knot for joining 2 ropes for rappelling (leave long tails)
for V-threads

with 7 mm cord use a Fisherman's knot
with webbing use a water knot
threading your rope opens the door for all sorts of trouble

From the paper:

re-bored screw placements are almost as strong as a fresh placement
use long ice screws to make the strongest V-threads
NEVER use a single anchor (V-thread or ice screw) when high forces are expected

Good information and a good read. As usual, ice climbing is a dangerous sport and you should seek instruction from a qualified guide. We're not responsible for anything you choose to do in the mountains. Besides you shouldn't believe stuff you read on the Internet anyway.

Indoor Climbing - 2011

2011-10-03T13:20:00.000-07:00

Outdoor climbing coming to a close. It seems only those with freakishly warm metabolisms or an affinity for cold digits are still out in the crags. Fortunately, Carcross Rec has come through for local climbers.

Starting Thursday Nov. 10th Equinox Rox and Carcross Rec kick off their local kids climbing night in the Carcross gym. The plan is or hold around 12-14 sessions. Local kids climb from around 6pm-8pm and adults can climb till 9pm or later depending on what we can arrange with custodians.

The cost is $10 per session with the potential of a season's pass. There is a deal for those who come out early and help with the kids program (belaying or route setting). Money raised goes back into the Carcross Rec program to cover the cost of more sessions.

New Route Round Up

2011-09-26T09:30:00.000-07:00

It's been a quiet year for new routes. Many developers have been busy with other projects such as kids, paddling trips and guide books. Even so a few new routes have gone up this year. Here are the highlights:

Kusawa Lake - A new multi-pitch route was started somewhere south of the Kusawa Lake campground. The first ascentionists came back repeating "It'll go, It'll go" as if it were a mantra.

Rock Gardens - Bolts are installed all along the top of Grand Central Station which means no more tree anchors! Sweet! Also check out the 2 "new" trad routes to the left of Babbette. Kid's Corner - 5.4 and Beneath the Moss - 5.6 to 5.9 (depending on how you climb it).

White Mountain - A new multi-pitch project on the go at White Mountain. Developed in a brand new area, 3 pitches are bolted with more to come. There's a lot of space in this area for really sweet, long lines. It's definitely worth the invigorating hike. More information to come when the route is declared finished.

Crag Ex - A new route has appeared between Derek's Route and False Expectations. No one has stepped forward to claim it yet. Take care when climbing this new route as there is a lot of loose rock and lichen. The bolts run out 30 feet from the nearest set of anchors on False Expectations so be prepared to run it out. False Expectations is due to get its bolts sometime this fall.

Youth Climbing Club Needs Coaches

2011-09-16T23:41:00.000-07:00

The Yukon Youth climbing club is looking for two volunteer coaches. This involves coaching rock climbing indoors at FH Collins High School 1.5 hours at least once a week and up to three times a week (2 hrs on Thursdays). The hours are: Mondays (3:30-5pm), Wednesdays (3:30-5pm) and Thursdays (6 to 8pm). If you are interested call Alain Dallaire at 668-4042 or email him at alain.dallaire@yesnet.yk.ca

Guide Book Launch

2011-09-09T08:39:00.000-07:00

It's time to celebrate!

Come out to Tippler's Pub Wednesday, Sept. 14th and celebrate the launch of the new Yukon Climbing Guide. Things will start rolling at 6:30 pm.

Tim has lots of tasty beer on tap and the fine folks from the Yukon Section of the Alpine Club of Canada accyukon.ca will be there answering questions and signing up new members.

Oh yeah - and guides will be available for purchase at $25 ea. so bring some cash.

New Guide Book

2011-08-19T18:24:00.000-07:00

Its finally finished! After 3 odd years of bushwacking, bug killing, and occasionally climbing, the Yukon Climbing Guide is done. Copies will be available from me directly or from local outdoors stores and booksellers at a cost of $25.

There will also be a bit of a party to celebrate. Stay tuned for more details on the party.

If you would like to reserve a copy of the new Yukon Climbing Guide please drop me a line at ryanjagar@gmail.com.

GriGri2 Recall Notice

2011-06-21T09:09:00.000-07:00

Curt posted over in the forum about a recall for Petzl's GriGri-2. Apparently, excessive force can cause the release lever to become jammed open. To find out if your GriGri-2 is affected head over to Petzl's GriGri-2 Replacement recall page and see if your serial number matches.

Bolting Hardware

2011-06-04T15:14:00.000-07:00

For all of you who are setting routes out there we have a drill for rent and hardware available for sale. As in previous years we carry Hilti brand 3 3/4" stainless steel expansion bolts and Fixe hangers. These are sold at our cost of $5/bolt and hanger set. For information about drill rental drop a line to info@climbyukon.net. All the money goes back into a bolting fund managed by Equinox and a couple of local climbers.

If you are setting routes please use rated hardware - not the stuff you find in the Home Hardware. Rated hardware carries a stamp that indicates the safe working load (SWL) usually rated in pounds. You can find similar stamps and rating on all of your climbing gear, usually rated in kilonewtons (KN). For bolts, check the stamp on the end of the bolt. The Hilti bolts generally used in the Yukon are stamped either with a "D" (3") or an "E" (3 3/4") depending on their length.

If you come across a crag where you have questions about the bolts or some miscreant has removed the hardware let us know at info@climbyukon.net and do our best to answer your questions and replace and missing or sketchy bolts.

P.S. Please don't steal/borrow hardware (even if its just for a little bit and you promise to replace it "right away"). Its expensive (and annoying) to replace hardware and the money comes out of the pockets of local climbers. A brand new route can cost around $50 to $100 to equip and every bolt we have to replace means one more bolt we can't put on a new route.

Sweet Schwag!

2011-05-15T22:22:00.000-07:00

Thanks to everyone who came out to the Climbers Social last Tuesday. Around 40 people came out to swap stories and meet people.

Coast Mountain Sports has kindly donated some schwag for door prizes. So if you signed up as a member, your name was automatically added to the draw. An email announcing the winners will go out shortly.

Stay tuned for the next event and we hope to see you there!

Climber's Social

2011-05-04T09:17:00.000-07:00

The 2011 climbing season is underway so let's kick the season off with some beer. If you are a climber or looking at getting into climbing, join us at 7pm on Tuesday, May 10th at Tippler's Pub. This is a great chance to meet partners, tell tall tales and to get to know the community.

ClimbYukon will have a table with a sneak peek at the new climbing guide, information on current access concerns and membership sign-up.

This event is open to everyone, climbers, non-climbers and those just starting out.

Tell your friends!

Spring Crag Report - 2011

2011-04-10T19:47:00.000-07:00

The outdoor climbing season has started. A few intrepid (desperate?) climbers have already been out this spring. Here are the conditions that have been reported so far:

White Mountain - some snow at the base and a few of the routes are a touch damp from melt water

Crag Ex - the House Wall and the Gully are snow free and in good condition. Bring gaiters or snowshoes for the approach.

Rock Gardens - the bottom of the canyon is buried in snow but most climbs are snow-free and dry. Bring a shovel and a tarp.

Put some long johns on, throw your avi shovel in your pack and a handwarmer in your chalk bag and enjoy some bug free climbing!

BOULDERING COMPETITION AT FH COLLINS

2011-02-28T11:27:00.000-08:00

BOULDERING COMPETITION AT FH COLLINS WEDNESDAY EVENING, MARCH 9( FROM 6:30PM- 9:30PM)

Come one, come all...13 years and up! There will be a variety of bouldering problems for beginners all the way through those forearm-inflated climbing-mongers out there. As training is not part of anyone schedule in the winter, come over and enjoy the climbing !!!

Categories: Adults
13-15 years old
16- 18 years old

Bring: Your climbing shoes, a waterbottle, chalk bag, beaucoup d'energie and $5 for the entrance fee (proceeds go towards the Yukon Youth Climbing Club)

Use the side gymnasium door to access the climbing gym on the stage.

Please spread the word to anyone you think would be interested.

Alain

Indoor Climbing - Winter 2011

2011-02-22T18:04:00.000-08:00

The fantastic folks in Carcross have opened up their gym for all the plastic pullers out there. Come belay Carcross kids for an hour or so and then climb to your heart's content. The kids program starts at 6pm at the Carcross School Gym.

Contact Chris at Equinox for more info equinoxyukon@gmail.com .

Ice Climbing Madness

2011-01-09T15:33:00.000-08:00

Despite temps below -25 the few, the proud, the moderately insane, ice climbers have been out hacking away at the various falls and seeps. Head over to the forms at forum.climbyukon.net to read the trip reports and/or post your own.

It appears there is good ice at White Mountain, the Muncho Lake and the Skagway pass. Recently, Curt H. and Alain D. uncovered a new ice area just outside of Skagway. The new area is call Spice and Meatballs. The trip report and photos can be found here: http://forum.climbyukon.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=60

If you are headed out to the mountains be extra vigilant for avalanches. Our friends over at the Yukon Avalanche Association report a high avalanche hazard due to the huge fluctuations in temperature.

Yukoner Makes Climbing Magazine

2010-12-17T08:23:00.000-08:00

Local climber Chris Cann snapped a shot of a friend climbing in Spirit Canyon and submitted it to Climbing Magazine. That picture won him Climbing mag's "Photo of the Month" award. Pick up December's copy and check it out!

Climb Yukon AGM 2010

2010-11-25T21:05:00.000-08:00

The 2010 AGM for the ClimbYukon Association is on Tuesday, November 30th at 7:00pm at the Canada Games Centre.

Potential topics of conversation include:
- Arranging a publicly accessible indoor climbing venue
- Anything else that comes up

We will also be holding elections for Board positions.

If you are interested in getting involved this is your opportunity!

2010 Bouldering Comp

2010-11-22T22:00:00.001-08:00

FH COLLINS THURSDAY EVENING, DEC.2 FROM 6:00PM- 9:00PM

Come one, come all...13 years and up! There will be a variety of bouldering problems for beginners all the way through those forearm-inflated climbing-mongers out there.

Categories: Adults
13-15 years old
16- 18 years old

Bring: Your climbing shoes, a waterbottle, chalk bag, beaucoup d'energie and $5 for the entrance fee (proceeds go towards the Yukon Youth Climbing Club)

Use the side gymnasium door to access the climbing gym on the stage.

Please spread the word to anyone you think would be interested.

Yukon College Opens Bouldering Wall

2010-09-15T14:25:00.000-07:00

On Monday Yukon College unveiled their brand new indoor boudering wall. Once sufficient supervisors are trained the wall will be open during lunch hours. At this time the wall is only open to Yukon College students.

More Atlin Road Construction

2010-08-06T10:23:00.000-07:00

Another section of Atlin Road Construction is currently going through YESAB. I suspect that it may not threaten the climbing any further but thought I would post just in case:

Project Number: 2010-0186

Project Title: Atlin Road #7, Highway Reconstruction Km 32 to Km 41, Yukon

On the YESAB website the project that I am referring to is the botom one in the list: http://www.yesab.tzo.com/wfm/lamps/yesab/public/public.jsp;time=1281115591579#

Bouldering Festival - Aug 8 (Sunday!!)

2010-08-06T09:57:00.000-07:00

Just a quick reminder that the annual bouldering festival in Ibex Valley is on Sunday! See their website for information:

http://www.yukonbouldering.com/

New Guide and Online Forum

2010-05-31T12:15:00.000-07:00

A draft of the new Yukon Climbing Guide is now available for your reading pleasure at Equinox Rox Zip Line, Coast Mountain Sports and Up North Aventures. The guide is an ongoing project and the information in it will change as new routes are established or we learn something new.

New releases will be published to the above locations on the 15th of every month. If you have any changes, additions, comments etc. please leave a note in the binders. Or drop a line at info@climbyukon.net.

Also new for this summer is the ClimbYukon forum here: forum.climbyukon.net. You can post trip reports, submit new route information or connect with other climbers. Let us know if you have any questions or comments at info@climbyukon.net.

Bouldering Competition Results

2010-05-25T16:38:00.000-07:00

Peter Polivka and Alain Dallaire would like to thank all that participated in the recent Bouldering Competition held at FH Collins high school. They hope that everyone enjoyed it and they look forward to seeing you again in the fall. For now, enjoy a long and safe summer climbing season!

Here are the results by category (Ranking #, Name, # of points):

Adult Female:

1, Justine Scheck, 723
2, Jody Overduin, 416
3, Jamella Hagen, 183
4, Katerine Scheck, 152
5, Catherine Henry, 130

Adult Male:

1, Justin Walace, 756
2, Eric Allen, 642
3, Jean-Francios Papillon, 521
4, George Kokuryo, 407
5, Boris Hoefs, 170
6, Eric Vezeau, 70
7, Stephen McGovern, 24

15-18 Female:

1, Elle Parker, 137
2, Erin Olver-Beebe, 4

15-18 Male:

1, Denny Bohmer, 703
2, Maxime Parker, 480
3, Seamus Beairsto, 301
4, Calden Hoefs, 291

Have a great summer and play safe!

Yukon Indoor Bouldering Championship - 2010

2010-05-01T09:12:00.000-07:00

Who: Experienced and non-experienced climbers that want to have fun for one evening

What: Indoor bouldering competition for all abilities

Where: FH Collins Secondary School Climbing Wall

When: Thursday, May 13, 2010. 6pm to 9pm
Registration starts at 5:45pm

Why: To have fun, meet other climbers & challenge yourself!

Cost: $5.00

Info: Call Alain (668-4042) or Peter (633-5433)

At least 20 new bouldering problems set-up! You will be pumped, guaranteed!

Spring Climbing Conditions - May 1, 2010 Update:

2010-05-01T09:04:00.000-07:00

Rock Gardens: Mostly snow free but still requires a tarp for the rope in places (some snow, water and mud to avoid)

McIntyre Bluff: Totally dry and climabable - approach is a bit wet but not really muddy. The boulder there is climabable too but the backside still has snow.

White Mountain: Completely dry and good to go

Spirit Canyon: Has been climbable for a full month already!

Black Lakes (Skagway): Has been snow-free for over a month but usually takes a while to dry out (it seeps). May be climbable now.

Anyone been to Golden Canyon, Silver Slab, Paint Mountain or Grey Mountain?

Found Gear

2010-04-26T20:15:00.000-07:00

A belay device was found in the Rock Gardens on April 26th, if you can tell me what kind and what colour it is, its yours.

The Gardens are in good shape but bring a rope tarp as the base is a bit muddy.

Spring Climbing Conditions - April 2010

2010-04-17T08:37:00.000-07:00

Spring is here!

The sky is cloud free and the snow is retreating. Some intrepid climbers have already dug out their climbing shoes and are wading though knee deep snow to get to the crags. Here's what folks have reported so far:

White Mountain:
All routes dry and the base clear of snow

Golden Canyon:
In climbable condition; the road is in an unknown state

Rock Gardens:
Routes appear to be dry but the base of the canyon is chock full of snow

McIntyre Creek:
The sport routes are dry and clear though the approach is very very snowy

There are no reports on other crags at this time. Though we suspect that Spirit Canyon and Magee Crag are probably in decent spring climbing condition.

If you have an update on the condition of any Yukon area crags drop us a line a climbyukon@gmail.com.

INDOOR BOULDERING COMPETION - WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 17, 6pm @ FH Collins High School

2010-02-10T23:05:00.000-08:00

Come out and have fun bouldering for an evening with a bunch of new problems and the opportunity to meet other climbers and boulderers.

You are welcomed to participate next Wednesday night (Feb 17th) from 6:00 to 9:00 PM at FH Collins school in the gym. The only people trained at this time of the year will be youth athletes from FH climbing club.

Format: Competition with scoring sheet completing only boulder problems. Each problem can be tried as many times as you like.

Cost: $5.00

Categories: Youth female and male 10-14 and 15-18 and Adult open male and female

Registration: On site

Climbing access issues?

2009-09-10T09:43:00.000-07:00

As the hunting and heating (firewood) seasons approach, climbers visiting certain areas may encounter new signs posted by various agencies. These signs tend to focus on commercial uses, gathering of firewood and motorised vehicles. Climbing is a very low impact activity and climbers should not be concerned that access is being limited unless it is clearly stated (let us know if this is the case).

As always, the best way to maintain access to all climbing areas is to:
1. Keep a low profile (be quiet, respectful and low impact and ensure that you park well off all roads and use only existing trails).
2. Leave no trace (pack out what you pack in, be very diligent about human waste management)

Bad Mojo at Grey Mountain

2009-09-07T22:02:00.000-07:00

It looks like hooligans have been out at Grey Mountain (The Back Alley). About $70-$100 worth of hangers have been stolen off various routes and anchor stations. As well a huge amount of rock has been pulled down - way more than is reasonable or even needed to clean the routes.

If anyone has any idea of where the hardware has disappeared to please let us know. All the hardware out there has been purchased by local climbers out of their own pockets and donated to the community and it would be awesome to recover what we can.

Don't forget the Bouldering Festival!!

2009-08-03T14:31:00.000-07:00

The Allens and company are again putting on the Ibex Valley Bouldering Festival. This year is is on Sunday, August 9th (this weekend!!)

It is open to all and is always a good time. Details can be found here: http://www.yukonbouldering.com/

New routes at Grey Mountain

2009-08-03T14:20:00.000-07:00

There are several new routes at Grey Mountain (Lower) that you may want to check out. - There is one to the left of the "Grey Wave" that has three bolts and goes at about 10a

Then there are 5 more to the right of the Grey Wave (around the corner):
1. A 4-bolt sport climb that goes at about 9+ or 10a
2. A 2 (or 3) bolt mixed climb that is about 5.9 (pro is not great)
3. A 2 (or 3) bolt mixed climb that shares some bolts and anchors with the previous climb and goes at about 5.8 (pro is not great)
4. A 4-bolt sport climb that goes at about 5.9
5. 'Sweet Caroline' - A 4-bolt sport climb that goes at about 10a up through a notch in the small roof at the top.

Thanks to George Kokuro and Alain Dallaire for bolting these lines! Try them out and let us know what you think about the grading. Please excuse any inaccuracies as this post is from memory. We will try to get a photo or topo and more routes names soon!

New ROUTE! - Golden Canyon..... No send as of yet!

2009-07-20T11:24:00.000-07:00

Well here we go with another new route..... So Bri and I have been camping a lot in golden this summer which means.... we get time to bolt!

Sorry I dont have a pic just yet but the route is just to the left of "Crackin UP" in the upper canyon area. This one has been here for quite a while but only as a top rope. She now has 8 bolts as well as the standard chain anchor. This route is more technical than "Basquing in Your Affection" and is one hell of a pumpy brute! Follow the bolt line up till you pull through the mini-roof, then stay right at the top until you hit the anchor. The rock is really good and compact however there are a few questionable small flakes that might come off so be carefull when belaying. As far as I know it is still un-sent on lead so there's an FA waiting for someone. If you send it can you please write in and let us know the rating as well as the name so we can record it.

Have Fun!

Here is a pic by Jen Eakins of me drilling:

D & D Boulder (near the rock gardens)

2009-07-20T11:08:00.000-07:00

From Chris Cann:

Well we visited the D and D boulder tonight to take pictures and share with everyone. It appears some local climbers have already found it-blasted road! For those of you who haven't, head to the rock gardens but park on the left side of the new road. Start walking along the tree line towards copper ridge until you find a trail left. This trail used to go all the way to the rock gardens-blasted road! Follow the trail for 5 minutes, the D and D boulder is on your left- you can't miss it. So D and D ? Dungeons and Dragons. A buddy and I found this boulder 4 or 5 winters ago and have been picking moss and choss out of the nooks and crannys on obvious lines ever since. Yes I know, how do I know we found it. I don't, I just know we cleaned all 6 problems. But, If there is anyone out there that has been climbing it before us let me know. Most are highballs and required more nerve with the trees that use to be there. All of the problems in the first picture were sent with the trees in place. We tied the trees back with a dog leash. Check out the images for beta on the problems.

Something for everyone to consider: Climbing is an amazing sport, with individual beliefs and experiences. Access and safety are important considerations in climbing. Equally important is spending time with your friends in the outdoors. However I think there are some us that believe that climbing should be a subtle and respectful act that tries its best to be in harmony with nature . We have had some amazing sessions on the D and D boulder with the missing trees in place.

We are working in Haines junction this summer and have found some boulders on paint mountain,(or have found boulders that have probably already been found) we will keep you posted!!

FIRST IMAGE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT

Mephisto

Dungeon Master

Dragon

Mossy Highball

SECOND IMAGE LEFT TO RIGHT

Cockatrice

Your dog eats SH!&

Thanks to Chris for submitting this info.

NEW ROUTE! - Golden Canyon

2009-06-26T22:13:00.000-07:00

Well... ok.... its not brand-new..... but it's now bolted for lead. The route is "Basquing in Your Affection" and it is located in the "French Connection" right between the two easy crack climbs. She's got 5 bolts, chain anchors and goes at 5.11a. This will be a test of your balancy, crimpy, face climbing abilities. For a good time.... start on the right side of the wall at the base of the easy crack, and then do the little bouldery traverse to the left and then head up. Have fun!

PS: Thanks to Brianne Meister for being a bad ass belay master for 3 hours while I drilled and hammered!

Ibex Valley Boudering Guide

2009-06-18T12:48:00.000-07:00

I have received an electronic copy of the Ibex Valley Bouldering Guide from Sierra Allen who gave me the go-ahead to share it on this site. Many thanks to Sierra and her family for their generosity and all their work on developing boulder problems, creating the below map and establishing quite a few other rock climbs as well.

Do the right thing and print it double sided! (The printing option is found by clicking the MORE button below).

Ibex Valley Boulder Ing Guide

White Mountain TOPO - In PDF

2009-06-18T09:40:00.000-07:00

I have had this TOPO for at least 5 years and thought that it would be useful to others as well. It does not have all the routes but gives a good idea of the grades (which are a bit off in places). I am not sure who drew it so let me know if you know so I can give proper credit.

This utility below allowed me to add a PDF to the Blog (normally a problem). To print the TOPO, click on the MORE button below.

White Mountain - TOPO

Rope found at White Mountain - Sunday June 14th

2009-06-16T10:38:00.000-07:00

A rope and rope bag were found at White Mountain last Sunday. If it is yours, please email us and identify (by colour) the gear to claim it. We can then connect you with the principled fellow climber that found it. Our email address is climbyukon@gmail.com

NEW ROUTE! - White Mountain

2009-05-21T17:26:00.000-07:00

Naked Grotto

3-way Climax 5.11a

20m - 8 bolts + Chain Anchors

This is a new bolting of a classic feature! Located just to the right of "The Wet Spot", its got everything you could want in a climb.... crimpy face at the bottom, lovely slab in the middle, and a "big ol" pumpy, monkey-bar, gym-thug roof! Dang its rad! The finish is the "white horn", oh and think about using a longer runner on the 4th bolt to lessen rope drag.

Pic of Mike Lewis nailing the last move..... yah Mike!

http://picasaweb.google.com/ClimbYukon/ClimbyukonNet#5338456922325640802

Enjoy

Bouldering Competition @ FH-Collins May 14

2009-05-11T22:50:00.000-07:00

Hey everyone,

Mike Lewis asked me to pass this on to you:

Bouldering Competition:

Come on out for a friendly night of bouldering to finish up the indoor season! This is a free event and will be open to both adults and youth. Look forward to seeing you there!

Where: FH Collins gym
When: Thursday night May 14

*Registration starts at 5:30pm, comp runs until 10 pm

Thanks

Thanks to all for White Mountain turnout ! (and an issue update)

2009-05-11T10:10:00.000-07:00

Show of Support
On Saturday (May 9th) we had a great turnout at the White Mountain climbing area. There were 20 cars at one point with at least 40 different climbers and supporters there throughout the day! Media (Yukon News) also attended.

Climbing was happening from 9am to at least 6pm and one party even spent the night. Climbers of all abilities and age groups connected with others, showed substantial support for protecting this valuable recreational resource and enjoyed a safe day on the rock!

Action Update
It seems that the blasting will only marginally affect the actual climbing routes but we are still concerned about the impact of the excavation and ditching that will occur as the road is widened and moved closer to the cliff. One other safety concern is parking, the existing parking area will no longer exist post construction. On all these concerns Robin Walsh, Director of Transportation Engineering, Highways and Public Works Highways, has committed to working with Climb Yukon and Yukon climbers to find creative solutions.

The next step in the process is a site planning visit with Yukon government officials, the contractor and Climb Yukon members to determine what if any other impacts exist and to find solutions for them.

Even so its important to stay engaged. Construction is slated to start on June 15th. Until then get out and climb before construction starts - take your friends! Raise awareness of climbers and climbing in the territory.

If you have comments, concerns or questions please let us know either by posting a comment or sending an email to: climbyukon@gmail.com

Related
It was recently learned that the climbing area is already in Agay Mene Territorial Park, an area that is classified as a "Natural Environment Park". It is not formally established as a park yet but is classified as one. Perhaps Yukon Parks would work with us to provide and outhouse? More info here: Agay Mene Park.

Day of Support for White Mountain - Sat. May 9th

2009-05-07T23:20:00.000-07:00

Come and join us to assess the situation, connect with the climbing community and climb!! (Click on the image to enlarge).

See below posts for information about the current status of the White Mountain climbing area and what else you can do to help (write letters!).

White Mountain Update and FACTS - May 7th

2009-05-07T11:54:00.000-07:00

We are working with different levels of government and your support (letters!) is helping! Here is a quick update:

- We have a meeting with Highways and Public Works today
- The CBC story that ran this morning indicated that the blasting will not affect the rock climbs. This is not entirely accurate or certain. We DO NOT have official statements from the government confirming this yet. The CBC story is positive but not definitive
- Blasting is only part of the story - brushing, excavation, ditching, etc. are still major concerns
- Making good progress thanks to all the climbers sending letters - Keep on with the letters (see below post for example letters)
- Drop us a line at climbyukon@gmail.com whenever you go out there so we know how much use the area is getting and your observations on numbers of other climbers and construction impacts
- Come out to White Mountain on Saturday and do some climbing - connect with your community and show support for the area!

LETTER WRITING ACTION STILL NEEDED ON ROAD CONSTRUCTION AFFECTING WHITE MOUNTAIN RECREATIONAL CLIMBING AREA!

2009-05-07T10:50:00.000-07:00

Current road construction, including brushing and possible blasting on the Atlin Road, will have negative impacts on the White Mountain climbing area.

Despite the initial serious impacts of brushing, at present, all climbs at White Mountain are still climbable, and the rock has yet to be disturbed. Let’s work together to make certain the Government of Yukon is aware of the climbing community’s concerns and is willing to work towards finding solutions that ensure access to our area of recreation is maintained.

Climb Yukon Association urges everyone to submit letters to the Government of Yukon (Minister of Highways and Public Works, Archie Lang), your local MP or media. At the bottom of this update is a list of contacts where you can send your letter.

Climb Yukon recommends keeping your letter clear and concise. You can choose to write your own letter or use the form letter below. Sample letter #1 is more political, while the #2 provides several topic options to choose from. Try to make no more than two points in any letter to ensure your audience’s attention is maintained throughout.

Notes: If you are writing to your MLA or Minister, keep to the issue; always Urge or Request, do Not Demand.

White Mountain Recreational Climbing Area- suggested letter #1:

Hon. Archie Lang, Minister of Highways and Public Works
Yukon Legislative Assembly
Box 2703, Whitehorse, YT Y1A 2C6

May 7, 2009

Re: White Mountain Rock Climbing Recreation Area on Atlin Road.

Dear Minister Lang ,

I am a Yukon rock climber writing to express my concern with the current construction activity in the vicinity of White Mountain on the Atlin Road.

The Yukon portion of the Atlin Road provides access for a variety of recreational uses including this prime rock climbing location. Located approximately eleven kilometers from Jakes Corner on the Atlin Road, White Mountain is one of the most popular sport climbing locations in Yukon. Over the past ten years, avid climbers have at personal expense worked diligently to develop and maintain twenty-five different climbing routes, a small parking lot/ day area and walking trails.

Should the current construction continue strictly as planned, it will result in a devastating impact to this valuable Yukon recreational site.

Preventing any further negative impacts to this recreational site is of paramount importance to me and I urge the Government of Yukon to meet with Climb Yukon Association (CYA) to identify the concerns of Yukon climbers and find practical solutions that will meet the objectives of improving Yukon highways while preserving the integrity of the White Mountain climbing site.

Activities carried out at White Mountain have a low environmental impact and are enjoyed by Yukon residents and Yukon visitors alike.

I am forwarding a copy of this letter to the Minster responsible for Tourism as I believe these partners have a direct interest in any determinations you make.

Thank you for your prompt attention to this important matter. I would appreciate if you would respond to Climb Yukon Association email address (climbyukon@gmail.com).

Sincerely,

Your Name
Address

Or use pick a topic below and write your own letter;

Date
Address

Re: White Mountain Rock Climbing Recreation Area on the Atlin Road.

Dear _______________________,

I am a Yukon rock climber writing to express my concern with the current construction activity in the vicinity of White Mountain on the Atlin Road.

With respect to this valuable rock climbing area that is under threat from the Atlin Road upgrade, there are many urgent issues that need to be addressed prior to proceeding with the road construction project. Preventing any further negative impacts to this site is of paramount importance to me, and I urge the Government of Yukon to consider the following points in any determinations to be made.

• Yukon has many climbers but limited climbing areas, and White Mountain is one of our best! Access to this area for sustained recreational climbing use needs to be maintained for continual development.
• The main needs of climbers at White Mountain include: a small parking area; a reasonable distance from road to cliff; at least three metres of undisturbed or (roughly) level ground extending out from the base of the cliff; a bush buffer to provide a natural atmosphere and to act as a sound and dust barrier from the road; an outhouse.
• Climbing has many benefits for the territory and its people. It is a healthy, safe and low-carbon form of recreation that is enjoyed by individuals and families. To inadvertently demolish one of the Yukon’s prime recreational sites would disenfranchise a significant number of old and new climbing enthusiasts.
• The Yukon outdoors is an important aspect of tourism and lifestyle choices that attracts people to the territory
• With more climbing infrastructure being developed, there are increased numbers of climbers from outside the territory coming to experience a new challenge that Yukon climbs present. This is a positive aspect for Yukon tourism especially during global economic recession and decreasing numbers of visitors to the territory.
• While recognizing the importance of maintaining Yukon roads, it is also of importance to identify and protect areas that Yukoners value and use.
• Climbing has low environmental impacts… White Mountain climbing area is non-renewable resource that cannot be replaced over time. It is important to protect the area since we will not be able to restore it at a later date.

I request that the Government of Yukon work with Climb Yukon Association representatives to find a solution to this situation so that climbing enthusiasts can continue to use and enjoy this climbing area.

Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter. I would appreciate a response to this inquiry via Climb Yukon Association (climbyukon@gmail.com).

Yours truly,

Your Name
Address

Send to:

Media

Yukon News
211 Wood Street
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 2E4
Fax: 867-668-3755
Email: rmostyn@yukon-news.com

Whitehorse Star
2149 Second Ave
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 1C5
Fax: 867-668-7130
Email: letters@whitehorsestar.com

Government of Yukon

Hon. Archie Lang, Minister of Highways and Public Works
Yukon Legislative Assembly
Box 2703
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 2C6
Email: archie.lang@gov.yk.ca

Hon. Elaine Taylor, Minister of Tourism
Yukon Legislative Assembly
Box 2703
Whitehorse, YK
Y1A 2C6
Email: elaine.taylor@gov.yk.ca

White Mountain meeting summary and resources to take action

2009-05-05T06:39:00.000-07:00

On the evening of May 4th, there was a meeting to inform rock climbers about the impact of the Atlin Road construction on one of our best climbing areas. It was very well attended with over 50 people and at least two reporters present.

Basically the update given by several key players that are dealing with different levels of government goes like this:

The construction is underway and has already affected the climbing area in that all the bush between the rock and the road has been removed from part of the climbing area
It appears that at least part of the climbing area is slated for blasting (in June)
Several climbers and the Yukon Rock Climbers Association are taking action:

Letters are being written to the Minister and Deputy Minister of Highways and Public Works, the Minister of Tourism (also the Minister of the Environment) and to our individual MLAs
We are working toward a meeting with the Minister of Highways (and perhaps the Minister of the Environment)
We are working with the Engineering Department of Highways and Public Works to determine the exact plan, location and timing of the work that may impact the area
In all cases they have been reasonably receptive and we are confident that the politicians and public servants would like to work together toward a solution if possible
Our main obstacles are time and the fact that there is not much room for the road at that point between the lake and the bluff

Recommended action:

Continue to spread the word to other climbers and encourage action such as writing letters and placing phone calls to the Ministers and MLA's offices
Even if you have already written letters draft more as there are new angles on this issue to bring up (see below) and no solution yet
Use the climbing area (but do not disrupt the construction process)
Write a letter to the editor
Maintain a diplomatic approach and encourage benefits to the area as part of the solution (see below)

Resources:

Points to emphasize:

This climbing area is one of our best climbing resources in Yukon and has been in use for over 10 years
It is in an area that will soon be a Territorial Park. Parks are typically areas that protect and promote wilderness, wildlife, scenery and RECREATION
Rock climbing is a safe, healthy and low-impact activity engaged in by people of all ages
The government actually contributed to the development of this area by assisting in creating the parking area for climbing during the last road upgrade abut 10 years ago - we appreciate that
We don't need much: preservation of the cliff, a small parking area, a buffer of bush to provide protection and privacy from road noise, traffic and dust
Potential benefits that could come of this include draining the mosquito swamp, a decent parking area, (maybe even an outhouse??)

Contact resources:

Minister of Highways and Public Works:
-- archie.lang@gov.yk.ca -- 667-8643
Minister of Tourism and Culture (and Environment):
-- elaine.taylor@gov.yk.ca -- 667-8641
List of all MLAs with contact info (click on your MLA's link)

Important Meeting about White Mountain

2009-05-04T00:07:00.000-07:00

There is a very urgent issue with the White Mountain Climbing Area (details in post below). Please support us in our attempt to save this climbing area by attending a short meeting on Monday May 4th at 6pm at the Canada Games Centre - Meeting Room #2.

Context: Let's keep this meeting civilized. The Gov't and the Department of Highways have been receptive so far. This issue is not due to neglect or lack of consult, it is an unfortunate coincidence that arose and will hopefully be dealt with by working with all stakeholders in a positive manner. Media and Gov't representatives may be in attendance so we need a substantial turnout to show the numbers of affected climbing enthusiasts.

Atlin Road construction affects White Mountain climbing area !!

2009-05-01T10:43:00.000-07:00

We have recently learned that road construction on the Atlin Road is affecting White Mountain, our largest climbing area (by # of routes) !!

This it what we know:

Construction (mainly brushing) is already under way
The climbs closest to the road (climber's-left from parking) no longer have any trees/bush between the rock and the road
The other climbs to the right have not yet been affected
It seems like blasting may be planned
As far as we know all climbs are still climbable and the rock has not yet been affected

What we want/need to know immediately:

What further impacts can be expected by this project?
Are there plans for blasting?
Will climbers needs (parking and a brush buffer) be addressed?

What is being done:

Several climbers have written the Minister (of Highways and Public Works) and the Deputy Minister
Others have been working from the "bottom up" by talking to the area manager and other public servants involved directly with the project
YESAB, First Nations (CTFN) and other organizations are also being contacted
Some climbers plan to go there tomorrow to assess the situation (and climb!!)
A Public Information meeting is being planned for Monday, May 4th at 6pm at the Canada Games Centre (Meeting Rm 2)

What YOU can do:

Call, email or write a letter to the Minister and copying the Deputy Minister expressing your concerns about this project and its impacts to our recreation (contact info below)
ATTEND an INFORMATION SESSION that is planned for Monday, May 4th at 6pm in Meeting Room 2 at the Canada Game Centre to show how many people this affects. please come and bring friends!
Inform EVERY climber that you know about this issue and encourage them to write, email and/or call as well
Keep informed by returning to this website (blog) in order to take further action if and when necessary
Go out to White Mountain to climb and check out the impact for yourself

Resources for contacting the Minister and DM:

Minister of Highways and Public Works:

Archie Lang - archie.lang@gov.yk.ca 667-8643

Deputy Minister:

Mike Johnson - mike.johnson@gov.yk.ca 667-3732

Main points to relay:

This matter is urgent and the project should be suspended until the impact to climbing is assessed
Blasting would be detrimental
The main needs of climbers at that area are: a small parking area; a reasonable distance from road to cliff; a bush buffer to provide a natural feeling, and to act as a sound and dust barrier from the road
Yukon has many climbers but limited climbing areas and White Mountain is one of our best
Climbing is a healthy, safe and low-carbon recreation that is enjoyed by many individuals and families and people of all abilities

Please take action, keep informed and ATTEND THE PUBLIC INFO SESSION on Monday night. If you have questions, comments or concerns or want to be more involved please email us at climbyukon@gmail.com . Comments can also be placed by clicking the link below.

Spring Update - April 2009

2009-04-08T09:31:00.000-07:00

Spring climbing is coming - actually for the hard core few - it might all ready be here :)

Here is an update on current happenings:

Indoor Climbing
Thursday, April 9, is the last day for indoor climbing at FH. It's been an awesome winter and its been great having everyone out. We hope that we can arrange it for next year.

Ice
The Equinox Ice towers are closed for the season however for the committed there is still decent ice for those willing to trek in. Intrepid Ice Climbers may have luck with Reid falls in Skagway, and shady parts of White Mountain.

Rock
A few hardcore climbers armed with shovels have ventured out to Grey Mountain and reported good, if slightly chilly/snowy climbing conditions. White Mountain is probably in good shape as well for those willing to dig out the base.

If you have any news re: the condition of any climbing areas let us know by dropping a line at climbyukon@gmail.com or post below.

Indoor Climbing @ FH Collins

2009-03-24T10:27:00.000-07:00

Just a reminder:

Drop in Climbing at FH Collins is canceled March 26th and April 2nd.

There will be an additional night available for drop in climbing on Monday March 30th, 2009 from 8pm to 9pm.

The last night for Drop in Climbing as Thursday March 9th, 2009. If there is a strong desire to see Drop in Climbing continue for longer please drop a line to climbyukon@gmail.com

For those interested the Event Calendar has an up to date schedule of climbing activities dates and times.

Thanks

Ryan

Indoor Climbing - Starting Jan 15th

2009-01-13T16:54:00.000-08:00

The City of Whitehorse has come through for us!

Starting Jan 15, 2009 the City of Whitehorse is offering drop in climbing at FH Collins gym. It will run every Thurday evening until the spring thaw. Bring your shoes, harness and $8 and come pull on some plastic for a few hours.

The City is also offering intro climbing classes for people new to the sport. Its an opportunity to learn about the systems and gear. As well, new climbers will be able to work on their technique and learn some new tricks.

For more information grab a copy of the leisure guide at the Canada Games Centre, the Parks and Rec Office or online at http://www.whitehorse.ca or you can contact the Parks and Rec office directly at 668-8325.

Agenda - Climb Yukon Association Meeting Oct 27, 2008

2008-10-23T09:40:00.000-07:00

Agenda -Climb Yukon Association
5:30 PM Canada Games Centre Board Room

1. Who are we and what do we do?

Mandate:

The purpose of the Climb Yukon Association is to develop to the climbing community in the Yukon as a recreational opportunity for adults and youth, to raise awareness of, and address access and safety concerns.

This will occur through:

Training and programs

Climbing area maintenance and development

Community education and communication

Partnerships with not for profits, government agencies and the private sector

2. Winter Projects

Indoor Climbing

Guide Book

3. Admin Stuff
Who wants to get involved?

Any questions? Additions?

Drop a line at:

climbyukon@gmail.com

Climbing Club Meeting Monday Oct 27, 5:30pm, CGC

2008-10-22T14:31:00.000-07:00

ATT: Yukon Climbers who give a damn!

The first official Yukon Rock Climbing Association (name isn’t final yet!) meeting is taking place Monday Oct 27 @ 5:30pm in the Canada Games Centre (board room). This meeting is open to anyone with interest in making the Yukon a better/ safer place to climb.

Hope to see you there!

Gary.

PS - send us your pics!

climbyukon@gmail.com

14 New Lead, and 15 New Top Rope Climbs In the Yukon

2008-10-12T14:58:00.000-07:00

I want to start this post with a request for photos and stories of climbing here in the yukon, or Yukoners climbing elswhere....... Send your stuff to climbyukon@gmail.com and we'll post it on our site!

Hello all, Well the weather was generally kinda crappy this summer but that didn’t stop us from enjoying a great climbing season. Our main goal this year was to open up some of our local climbing areas to accommodate the rapid growth of our climbing community, no sense in having line-ups when we have nearly unlimited rock! Turns out we have a boat load of climbing here in the Whitehorse area, or as I like to call it “land of a thousand crags!” This summer saw the addition of 14 new sport routes as well as 15 new top rope only routes (most of which will be bolted for lead next summer), and that is only in the Whitehorse area. Here’s low down on what’s new!

If you have spotted a possible climbing area, please send us an email (climbyukon@gmail.com) Try to include good directions, pics and estimated height if you can. Also If you have any other information on any of these routes (pictures, first ascent info, etc.) let us know so we can update the info.

The Yukon Rock Climbing Association (name isn’t final yet!) is looking to have its first official meeting very soon! If your interested in getting involved let us know. The plan is to do what we can over the winter so that our summers are left free to climb. Some of the possible projects are, trail cutting, out houses at the popular crags, retro bolts old climbs with un safe hardware, site expansion/ develpment, Ice Climbing, etc. We have great group of keeners that want to make the Yukon a safe, modern place to go climbing. climbyukon@gmail.com.

Take Care,

Gary

The Acropolis

2008-10-12T14:47:00.002-07:00

Turns out there is climbing right behind Copper Ridge! From Falcon Dr head down Northstar, turn right on the last road and park at the pump house. From there head directly down the bank where the sticks on the ground make a clear path. If you found the right spot you will come to a sweet tree house, go under the tree house and stay kinda right through the marsh ( I put a board down on the ground to help avoid the water). From there you will pick up a blue ribbon trail, stay kinda right and follow it to the edge of the valley. From this point you will be able to see the Acropolis (see attached photo). We have some plans for this site but as of right now there is only 1 established route and its on the SE face. This site is still very dirty so be very careful and expect rock fall! This route is unnamed and is quite hard……what you don’t realized until you on it is how over hung it really is. My guess is that its in the low 5.11’s (because its so sustained). That said the couple times I’ve tried this pumpy brute, it was allot of fun. The Acropolis needs a lot of work but offers some great climbing real close to home!

Grey Mountain Upper

2008-10-12T14:47:00.001-07:00

We recently found this site so there is not much going on here yet. Head up past the Grey Mountain Lower parking lot and park just before the snow cat road that meets up with the main road. Look for the first rock cairn just up on the side of the hill 30 feet off the road. Follow the rock cairn up the side of the hill to the left for about 10min and you will come to the upper bluff. We have put 2 bolts about 20 feet back from the top of this wall for exploration. It’s ridiculously sharp ,weird and slabby…but ohh so much fun. There is also another little wall directly below this one that we have to explore more of still. Oh and the best part of this place……the view!

Grey Mountain Lower

2008-10-12T14:46:00.002-07:00

Yes that’s right there is climbing on that giant chunk of lime stone we all love to look at every day. Head to the parking pull-out for the mountain bike trail called “Easy Money”, it’s the last parking area on the left side (going up) of grey mountain road once you pass the sign that says “road is not maintained beyond this point”. From the parking spot stay low and follow the rock around to the left. Thanks to our friends Alain, Manu, and Sean There are 5 new climbs in this area. The first climb starting on the left as you face the rock is called “Sweet Hole” it has 4 bolts and is rated at 5.10d. 5 feet to the right is another climb that shares the same top as Sweet Hole but has a different start. Manu says its really cool but quite hard, its rated at 5.11 b/c. The Next climb to the right is overhanging and rated at 5.10d. To the right some more is “The Grey Wave” it rates at 5.9+. The last climb on the right (for now!) is just around the corner and I’m told is a 5.9+.

Silver Slab

2008-10-12T14:46:00.001-07:00

Silver Slab got 4 new routes 1 being a sport route. When you first get the base of the main slab you will see one of the existing routes, just to the left of this lead climb is the 3 new ACMG put up climbs. The first one is still unnamed and goes at 5.7, just to the left of that is the unnamed 5.8 lead. Just to left of that one is a another unnamed 5.9, this one is fun with the crux being getting up the bulge in the middle. To the left is one more new climb… but I’m not sure on rating or name. And just in case you didn’t know (like I didn’t) If you follow the base of the wall to the left you will come across what was a anchor cleaning station (until some douche robbed one of the hangers!), and if you start just to the left of that there’s a sweet 2-pitch slab climb there called “Bonsai” witch rates somewhere in the 5.10+ range.

Golden Canyon

2008-10-12T14:45:00.002-07:00

30m past the “Ball Park” (the giant boulder you come across on the main trail) the trail jutes right toward the canyon wall. Right at that point is super fun trad route called “Shark Attack”. This is a great little 5.10 finger to fist crack climb with the crux being at the halfway point when you transfer up onto the main ledge. This is an old route that we put a new anchor to replace the old faded webbing rap anchor. A top rope can now be setup from a quick scamper up to the right of the climb. Just as you get to the French Connection you will see 2 shiny new chain anchors just like the one on Shark Attack, (by the way the chain we used is load rated for 6600lbs, please use 2 biners at the bottom as to not wear out the chain links). These are 2 new top rope climbs that will eventually be bolted for lead (next spring). Farther up the canyon about 50m past the dihedral “Crackin Up” we have retro bolted the anchors on an existing climb. Its wicked fun but use caution as it is still very dirty and belayers beware, this route has some loose rock still on it, so this is definitely a helmets on zone!

The Rock Gardens

2008-10-12T14:45:00.001-07:00

Most of the development this summer has happened primarily in the upper part of the canyon. With the exception of the mystery bolter who put a couple bolts in the top of “The Crucifix” to allow for a complete lead of the direct route! Head up the left side of the canyon till you come to a large bare rock look out. You can get down on the right side of the clearing. The first route you’ll come across is “Dynosaur", if you follow the bolt line it’s a 5.9+, if you go right it a 5.8, if you go far left it’s a 5.11c. About 40 feet to the right is “Cosmos” This doozy has had a new bolt put in at the bottom and I’ve heard claims of 5.13 but I don’t know since I don’t know anyone who has sent it yet (if you have let us know at climbyukon@gmail.com). Next to the right is an old classic that has just been bolted for lead. “Pinheads From Space” is a 5.11b, with a hell of a crux as the second friggin move! Around the corner to right is “Brian’s Climb” a mantle of a good time rating at a 5.10. On the next wall to the right is a crimpy little number called “The Pocket”(see photo). It’s ridiculously crimpy but tons of fun and is rated at 5.10c. Right next to The Pocket is “First Date” (see photo) stay out of the crack and it’s a 5.10b.

White Mountain (new stuff)

2008-10-12T14:44:00.000-07:00

We have recently put up 2 new routes. When you arrive at the site, head right, into the “naked grotto” (the last area you will come to). You will see a new 17m (ish) - 6 bolt- dihedral route called “The Wet Spot”. It comes in at a lovely 5.10a, with the crux being right smack in the middle. Over to the right some more you will see another freshly bolted beauty, named “Undulation”. This one is around 15m and has 5 bolts and goes at 5.11a. This ones a little harder with 2 cruxes, the first being near the bottom, and the 2^nd one is right at the top. Both routes are super fun and are begging for you to give them a pull.

Yukon Gold Buttress - Trip Report

2008-08-05T17:56:00.000-07:00

Stanley Noel and a few friends recently sent the Yukon Gold Buttress - a recently bolted 3 pitch multi-pitch on the far side of Lake Lebarge. Here is the trip report he sent in.

Hi Ryan, thought to update you on the Lake Leberge climb.

I accessed it by taking my zodiac from Helens Fish Camp (TAAN Land) off the Mayo Road. The boat ride was easily 1/2 hr around the west end of the lake past the Yukon River inlet about 1/2 km and up a slow deep creek which handles a motor boat no problem. When i could see the wall (see the beta sent by Sean MacKinnon) i hiked in. Its not rocket science accessing it, in fact its a really nice hike. The climb is beautiful, Id agree with the 5.7 rating given to it by the guys who put it up. The first pitch is a bit of sketchy start with scree and loose rock on the first unprotected 15 or so feet. Once you clip, its comforting... The second pitch is much nicer and cleaner, but still lots of loose rock. Might be worth a big clean by some ambitious climbers.

We rapped off cause we had 2 parties and two ropes, so i can't comment on the down-climb.

Anyone planning to go, make it a full day.

Yukon Climbing Areas

2008-07-09T19:17:00.000-07:00

Looking for a place to climb?

Currently, Rock and Raven has a more or less complete listing of developed climbing areas along with directions. It is only available in Whitehorse book stores, usually Macs Fireweed Books carries a copy or two.

We've started to update information about the climbs around Whitehorse and the Yukon Territory however we still have holes in our information. If you have any questions or have information on things like route names, difficulties or first accents let us know at info@climbyukon.net. On to the climbing areas!!!

The areas listed here are by no means a complete list and the list is in no particular order. We will be adding crag information as time allows. If you have any questions about an area drop us a line at ClimbYukon@gmail.com and we'll get back to you as soon as we return from the crag.

View Yukon Climbing Areas in a larger map

Rock Gardens
The local crag

White Mountain
Sport climbing extravaganza!

Ibex Valley
Hangout of Yukon's boulderers

Silver Slabs
aka: Tahkini Bluffs
mmm.... Slabby goodness

Golden Canyon
A crackin' good time!

Spirit Canyon
Hang out with bears in a beautiful slot canyon

Paint Mountain
Shh... we're not ready for visitors yet :)

MacIntyre Creek
Ice, Bouldering, Sport routes

East Lake Labege
Got a boat?

Climbing Walls and Artificial Structures
For the plastic puller in all of us :)
Equinox Rox

5th Annual Bouldering Festival

2008-07-08T10:04:00.000-07:00

Those crazy boulderers are back again this year running an awesome bouldering festival in the beautiful Ibex Valley. For more information check out their website at: www.yukonbouldering.blogspot.com.

Here is the email from Eric, Ying, and Sierra:

Hi Everyone,

You are all cordially invited to the 5^th annual 2008 Ibex Valley Bouldering Festival that is taking place on Sunday the 3^rd of August.

We are still in the planning stages right now, so if you have any ideas on how to improve the festival, or would like to help out in any way, please email us back. If you need directions on how to get there or any other information you can check out a map and updates at www.yukonbouldering.blogspot.com

This year’s festival will have the same components as last year- good food, music from Brent and Becky Law, juggling, slacklining, and lots of bouldering. We are planning several new improvements to the bouldering festival format. The advanced participants will be demonstrating the art of bouldering on killer problems with prizes for those that send to the top.

We are hoping to make this year the best festival we’ve hosted yet…

Please tell all your friends about it.

Hope to see you there!

Eric, Ying, and Sierra Allen

Blasting - again and City Programs

2008-06-18T15:02:00.000-07:00

Blasting resumed on the Hamilton extension over the past weekend. The contractor will likely be blasting pretty much everyday in order to meet deadlines so be aware of warning horns and be prepared to be asked to leave the area

In related news, the City of Whitehorse has canceled their climbing programs in the Rock Gardens for the summer. The risk of having kids in the area was too great for the City to accept. Fortunately, the City is running a couple of adult programs on a few weekends:

Golden Canyon
Saturday July 19

White Mountain
Saturday August 9

For more information about programs you can contact the City Parks and Recreation Department at 668-8325.

White Mountain

2008-06-09T20:51:00.000-07:00

The most developed sport climbing area in the Yukon. White Mountain has 16 routes on limestone most of which come in at 5.10. Interesting movement and burly moves are the hallmarks of this area. Access to the top can be difficult and there is little in the way of natural anchors so either be prepared to rap to the top anchors or bring a rope gun.

Style: Sport

Directions:

From Whitehorse head south towards Teslin on the Alaska Highway. Travel about 100km to Jakes Corner. Turn right onto the Tagish Road, 1km later turn left onto the Atlin Road. Travel 7km down the Atlin Road to the climbing area. There is a brand new pull out on the left at the base of a big road cut. Park here and follow the road on foot 50 m to the base of the cliff. The first bolted climb you encounter is Desperate-ado.

Click here for a map to White Mountain

3 Bolt Wonderland

From the parking lot, walk along the road 50m to the base of cliff. The first set of bolts you encounter are for Desperate-ado. All the routes here are 3 bolts to the top.

Sun: All Day

Rock: Limestone

1. Desperate-ado - 5.10b

Sport - 7m
3 Bolts

What look like good ledges are actually all bad.

2. Repo - 5.10a

Sport - 12m
3 bolts

Stick clip the bottom bolt and bust a move over the ledges to the chains.

3. Bounty - 5.10b/c

Sport - 10m
3 bolts

Crux is the boulder-y start. Enjoy the weird balance-y move at the second bolt

4. Harvest (Left at the Lights) - 5.10a

Sport - 11m
3 bolts

Meandering route from side to side. Look for the 3 finger glory hold just below the anchors.

5. Lawless (Dirty Filthy Crack) - 5.10a

Sport - 10m
4 bolts

Pumpy climb with a reachy start to the first bolt. Route takes a sharp dog-leg to the right at the 3rd bolt, consider extending with a sling.

6. Sasha-Frash (Six) - 5.7

Sport - 7m
3 bolts

Big on the bottom, thin on the top

7. Polywog (Nine) - 5.6

Sport - 7m
3 bolts

Thin on the bottom, big on the top

Pika Palace

Pika Palace is right next door to Left Wall. All the routes for the Pika Palace are on a detached cliff that faces the highway. There is a narrow gully behind the face infested by pikas. A rope attached to a large tree will help you aid to the top of the cliff. Walking from 3 Bolt Wonderland the first feature you will see is are 2 large cracks going to the top of the cliff. The second crack has a 2 bolt top anchor, this is Whores are People 2. It Ate My Finger F*cker is the last climb on the right that faces the highway. Skunk Line is around the corner.

Sun: All Day

Rock: Limestone

8. Whores are People 2 - 5.10c

Top Rope - 12m
Top Anchor

The route isn't climbed much and can be exciting to set the top anchor from above

9. Oh You Dog - 5.11c

Top Rope - 12m
Top Anchor

It appears this was a bolted sport route once upon a time but someone has pulled the hangers.

10. Trash Pump (It ate my Finger F*cker) - 5.11

Sport - 13m
5 bolts

Crimpy, pumpy, evil. Go straight up and then follow the bolts to the right. Enjoy the exciting bolt placement.

11. Right Foot White (Skunk Line) - 5.8

Sport - 12m
4 bolts

Bolts go straight up, and there's a lovely crack going up to the right. If you hang out in the crack its a 5.8 but reaching the bolts can be tricky.

Naked Grotto

This sector is the farthest from the parking lot. From the parking lot walk down the road to the base of the cliff. Continued along the cliff base until you find a bridge across a small pond. The climb just before the bridge is La Suegra.

Sun: All Day

Rock: Limestone

13. White on Rice (La Suegra) - 5.11b/c

Sport - 16m
5 bolts

Thin holds to a slopey ledge. Clip the 4th bolt, change your underwear and keep going.

14. The Wet Spot - 5.9

Sport - 18m
6 bolts

Corner "dihedral" with the crux being right in the middle

15. 3-way Climax - 5.10d

Sport - 18m
8 bolts

Second route from the bridge, looks like a big weird stone wave with a large roof at the end. This beauty is like 3 routes in one... crimpy face climbing in the beginning, a little slab section, and then a large roof. The finish is the white horn on the left of the chains

16. Undulation - 5.11a

Sport - 16m
5 bolts

This one is the third route from the bridge. There are 2 crux's, one at the bottom and then the other at the very top. Start out on the small base wall then crest up over onto a large wave type thing then head for the anchor chains. Super fun balance move at the top.

Rock Gardens - Blasting Update

2008-06-04T13:24:00.000-07:00

I just spoke with the Engineer responsible for the Hamilton Extension about the plans for blasting in the area. As it stands, they do not have permission to blast and probably won't until some time next week. That means no blasting until at least the week of June 9, 2008. The engineer has committed to contacting us before they start and we will be posting a blasting schedule when it becomes available.

Happy climbing!

New Domain!! - climbyukon.net

2008-05-30T11:13:00.000-07:00

After some amusing trials and tribulations the new domain bits have been fixed. The process of automagically setting up a custom domain with Google and Blogger isn't so magical. You should now be able to access this fancy site at climbyukon.net. That's 1 whole word less to have to type!

Climbing Partners

2008-05-29T11:49:00.000-07:00

Looking for a climbing partner? You have a couple of options.

Post something over at the forum.

or

send and email to the mailing list at climbers@climbyukon.net

or

send an email to info@climbyukon.net and we'll add you to the list.

You can download the whole list here: Yukon Climbers

Rock Gardens Site Access -| Updated May 21, 2008 |-

2008-05-21T14:57:00.000-07:00

UPDATE May 21, 2008

After the community meeting last week there is now a blasting schedule for the Hamilton Extension site. Starting at the end of this month and for probably until end of July there will be blasting twice a day one between 10am and 11am and one between 2pm and 3pm. The remaining blasting is occurring quite close the the Gardens so you probably want to pay attention to any warning signals. The contractor and the project engineer are really keen to make sure they don't have another incident like Lowbird again.

As a reminder: The contractor has asked us to stay off the construction site as much as possible. Eventually there will be a side road that we can park on but its not quite built yet. For the time being you may want to park over in the campground or across the road in the rest area.

UPDATE May 7, 2008

Lowbird residents had an some uninvited visitors last night courtesy of the blasting on the Hamilton Boulevard extension. See the article at the Yukon News the Whitehorse Star and the CBC. Blasting is suspended pending and investigation of the flying rocks.

On Monday May 5, 2008 the City, Equinox and us met with the contractor and the engineer in charge of the Hamilton Boulevard extension. We talked about access concerns as well as safety with blasting in the area. We also talked with the City and the contractor about putting up some signs in the area for parking as well as a schedule of City programs.

Access:

Soon a service road will be created on the west side of the extension (closest to the Airport). Climbers will be able to park there. There will be a limited amount of space so please car pool. Try not to park in the Yukon Gardens parking lot and access the Rock Gardens through there. The owner of the property is not climber friendly.

To get to the area walk along the tree line until you arrive at an obvious trail. Use that trail to access the Gardens. For obvious reasons cutting across the construction site is not a good idea. We'll post a map as soon as I whip one up.

Blasting and Safety:

Blasting is going on in the area until at least the end of this month. There is no set schedule however most blasting take place between 5pm and 7pm and the contractor will clear the area before a blast. In terms of rock stability, there is no sure fired way to determine the stability of the rock after blasting in the area. Use your judgment and watch for loose rock, flakes etc.

User Groups:

There seems to be a huge upswing in interest in climbing this summer - which is awesome! However this also means that there is added pressure on the crags, especially the Rock Gardens. A number of user groups in town such as the City and Equinox use the Rock Gardens for programs. In order to get people the most amount of climbing time we are working with the various user groups to post their program schedules here and hopefully at the trail head. That way we can work around everyone's schedule to get the most climbing in that we can. We hope to have that up in the next few days.

As usual if you have any questions or would like to know if blasting is scheduled for the day drop a line at climbyukon@gmail.com and we'll get back to you as soon as we can.

Domain Name Woes

2008-05-21T10:32:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

We are having some fun getting the new domain name (climbyukon.net) working. Currently I am in the middle of bickering with Google to get it resolved. Unfortunately, I don't have an eta on the fix.

In the mean time climbyukon.blogspot.com still continues to work.

I will keep all of you posted.

Cheers

Ryan

Thank You Equinox Adventure Learning!

2008-04-30T14:55:00.001-07:00

Hey everyone… Gary here!

Ryan was kind enough to let me contribute to his Blog…. So I figure my first addition would be a big huge thanks to Equinox Adventure Learning for a great winter of Ice Climbing right freakin down town! Chris Gishler worked his ass off all winter trying to make ice climbing available to everyone in the Whitehorse area. You did a great job Chris, your towers were amazing and as always your instruction was priceless. I’m excited for a great summer of climbing as always, but now I have something to look forward too in the winter as well! Oh and thanks to Ellen and the rest of the family for being so supportive of Chris and his crazy vision!

Thanks Chris… I’ll be seeing you again next winter….and this time I’ll have all my own gear!

See Ya

gary

White Mountain Extravaganza!

2008-04-30T10:29:00.001-07:00

A couple of local climbers - the same one's who were working to put on climbing in Carcross - are heading out to White Mountain this weekend to do some site maintenance and obviously, some climbing.

We are heading out Friday evening and plan to return Sunday evening and are looking to see if anyone else wants to hang out and climb over the weekend and maybe do some tidying of the area as well. You will need to bring your own rope, hardware as we don't know that there will be tons of extras.

If you have any questions please let Ryan - ryanjagar@gmail.com or Gary - garybremner@gmail.com know.

Cya there!

For those who don't know how to get to the White Mountain climbing area here is a map to the area:

View Larger Map

Carcross Climbing

2008-04-28T15:18:00.001-07:00

Hello all,

This Tuesday (April 29, 2008) will be the last night for indoor climbing at Carcross. It getting nice enough to go play outside - and I want my Tuesday evenings back :)

A huge thank you to the Carcross Adrenaline Club and the Carcross School for working with us to get indoor climbing happening over the winter. We hope to be able to start it up again next fall when the snow starts to fly.

Thank you all very much!

Cheers

Ryan

Site Updates April 28, 2008

2008-04-28T15:08:00.000-07:00

Here are the some site updates as of the past weekend. If you have any information about the condition any of the climbing area. Let us know at climbyukon@gmail.com

White Mountain:
Climbs mostly dry - some run off from the top. Watch for falling rocks.

Golden Canyon:
Climbs are dry however the canyon floor still has some snow. No word on the condition of the road

Rock Gardens:

Closed due to construction and blasting.

Ibex Valley:
Karl reports that the boulders are dry. However the road is in poor condition. Access requires a 4x4, bike or something similar.

Site Updates April 21, 2008

2008-04-21T10:36:00.000-07:00

Spring is here and outdoor climbing is starting to rev up - at least for those who don't mind slogging through a bit of snow.

Rock Gardens:
The Rock Gardens are currently not available for climbing due to construction and blasting in the area. On May 5th, YTG, the City and a couple of climbers are meeting to take a look at the Rock Gardens and to iron out access to the site during construction over the summer.

Blasting is scheduled to end May 31, 2008 give or take a week. Climbing is not recommended in the Rock Gardens at this time.

Golden Canyon:
Sean reports that the climbs in Golden Canyon are clear and dry. However the canyon floor is still fairly snowy. No word on the condition of the road.

White Mountain:
White Mountain is in good climbing condition with some snow at the base of the climbs. The rock is dry and the bolts look good. Bring a tarp to keep your feet dry at the base.

2 new top anchors have been installed in SeaMonkey Village (the area farthest to the right from the trail) They are called The Wet Spot and SeaMonkey's Revenge. The climbs are still very dirty so bring a brush.

Rappel anchors have been set above some climbs to make setting a top rope a little easier. As with any bolt - inspect them and use at your own risk.

If you have any more information about the condition of the various climbing areas let us know at climbyukon@gmail.com

The Ice Towers Have Fallen!!!

2008-04-12T20:14:00.000-07:00

***UPDATE***

The ice towers made the front page of the Yukon News. Take a look here

So... after almost 5 months of being a landmark on the Whitehorse Waterfront the tallest of the Equinox Ice Towers has fallen. It went down around 11 am Friday, April 11, 2008. No one was hurt though the BBQ was inconvenienced (and probably won't BBQ any more) and 5 sections of fence were mangled. Other than that no major damage occurred. Photo's to follow.

A big THANK YOU! to those who showed up to help removed ice from the road/sidewalk. And a huge thank you to Chris Gishler and Equinox Rox Adventures for providing a great place for ice climbers to go and play close to town. Hopefully we can do it all again next year!!!

ACMG Courses - June 2008

2008-04-07T10:26:00.000-07:00

The City of Whitehorse and Equinox Adventure Learning have partnered to bring up the Association of Canadian Mount Guides (ACMG) to facilitate a Climbing Gym Instructor Course and a Top Rope Instructor Course.

Call Mia 668-8327 at Parks and Recreation at the City of Whitehorse for more information.

Winter Indoor Climbing 2007/2008

2008-04-07T09:49:00.000-07:00

Thanks to the folks at the Carcross Adrenaline club we have arranged access to the indoor climbing wall at the Carcross school. All skill levels are welcome to come out and play around. We offer space for top roping and bouldering - currently we aren't setup for lead climbing.

In terms of gear we ask that you use the club's ropes and belay devices. If you have your own harness you are more than welcome to use it provided its in good shape. If you don't have any gear we have some provided by the Carcross Adrenaline club.

In order to top rope you'll need to be able to demonstrate:

setting up an ATC or GriGri
correctly tying in
appropriate safety checks
good comunication (belay calls)
smoothly belaying and lowering

We do a quick check to ensure that your skills are solid. Unfortunately, we a not setup to teach belay skills at this time. If there is a large enough demand for a belay course we may be able to arrange something.

A couple of last points: The Carcross club charges a fee that goes towards to replacing retired gear. The rates currently are $50 for the season or $5 per night. Climbing starts at 7pm and usually wraps up at about 9:30 at the Carcross School.

If you have any questions or would like to find out about car pooling drop a line to climbyukon@gmail.com

Events Calendar

2008-02-07T10:12:00.000-08:00

Rock Gardens

2007-05-15T19:26:00.000-07:00

The Rock Gardens is the local crag right in the middle of Whitehorse. It is very top rope friendly though recently it has seen significant development of moderate sport routes. It can get quite busy here during the week. The land at the bottom of the canyon is privately owned and should be respected. Please do not trespass.

Directions:

From the top of Robert Sevice way go up the Hamilton Blvd Extension towards Copper Ridge. Take the first exit from the roundabout. The parking area is the first right after the roundabout and the trail head starts here. From the parking area follow the well marked trail. After 100m the trail overlooks the top of the canyon where most of the bolted sport routes are located. Continuing down the trail will spit you out at the top of The Prow overlooking Bonneti's Tourist Route, Babbette and Bang.

Click for a map to the Rock Gardens

Routes:

Grand Central Station

The oldest part of the Rock Gardens, many Whitehorse climbers have learned the basics here. Check out Crucifix, a super classic line and one of the longer ones in the crag. This area is quite busy during week nights.

Sun: PM

Rock: Granite

1. The Prow - 5.6

Top Rope 10m 2 bolt top anchor

Found on the north side of the Canyon there are bolts for a top anchor. Head straight up the face. Bonus points for superfluous hand jams.

2. Riverdale Rise - 5.7

Trad 7m Use trees for a natural top anchor

Follow a flake up the small granite wall. To the east of The Prow. A top rope can be set off trees at the top.

3. Babbette - 5.8

Top Rope 9m 2 bolt top anchor

Found at the very bottom of the canyon. Getting off the ground is probably the hardest part. Look for hidden holds.

4. Bang - 5.8

Top Rope 8m 2 bolt top anchor

A hard move just off the ground and then beautiful ledges to the top.

5. Bonnetti's Tourist Route - 5.6

Top Rope 8m Use trees for a natural top anchor

This route only gets climbed by instructional groups or when this area is really crowded. Setup a top anchor using the big-ish trees on top.

6. Cucifix - 5.10d

Mixed 20m gear to 3" and 2 bolts

With an addition of a bolt in the summer of 2009 the route can be safely led from top to bottom. For a 5.9 option follow the crack to right. Big cams are useful for the top of the indirect variation.

8. Heretic - 5.10c

Top Rope 15m 2 bolt top anchor

Thin face climbing leads to a sneaky move in the middle of the climb.

The Great Unknown

This sector is just 50 m up the canyon (back towards the parking lot) from Grand Central Station and is choked with pretty dense brush. This sector is home to a couple of easy sport leads.

Sun: PM

Rock: Granite

1. Tortilla - 5.10a

Top Rope 5m 2 bolts

Follow the tiny crack for balance y face climbing.

2. Underestimated - 5.9

Sport 6m 3 bolts

The most remarkable thing about the climb is the need to heel hook in order to set the anchor.

3. Step Up - 5.7

Sport 6m 3 bolts

This route splits in the middle for 2 possible finishes. Reported as a good route for new leaders.

Upper Canyon

Home to Pin Heads from Space and Dynosaur this is the where the most challenging climbs of the Gardens are located. Most of the routes here are sport bolted.

Sun: PM

Rock: Granite

1. Dynosaur - 5.8

Sport 7m 5 bolts

Set by our friends from the ACMG for a course. Like a lot of routes in this sector its a good idea to set the top anchor first.

2. Cosmos (Weasel Beach) - 5.12c

Sport 12m 7 bolts

Bolted long ago this route was finally sent by Mike Lewis in the summer of 2009. Tiny ledges lead to a burly roof test your mettle on the hardest route in the Gardens.

3. Pin Heads from Space - 5.11b

Top Rope 13m 7 bolts

Originally put in as a top rope and has recently been bolted. Bonus points if you can find the lost arrow.

4. Brian's Climb - 5.10a

Sport 13m 5 bolts

A mantle of a good time...... stick clip the first bolt and think about pre rigging your top anchor.

5. The Pocket - 5.10c

Sport 10m

Just to the right of Brian's Climb, the first bolt is rather high so the start can be rather committing. You made decide to practice the ancient art of stick clipping.

6. Loner - 5.9

Top Rope 4m 2 bolt top anchor

Located across the canyon from all the other climbs this one often gets missed.

8. First Date - 5.10b

Sport 6m 3 bolts

...